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Knits and other structures
Loops rather than crossings. Why a knit stretches without a bias, why stockinette curls, and why a dropped stitch runs while a woven cloth frays.
Five symptoms of one omission
Five things this collection recorded as unexplained, found in four different ladders over three years of work. They are the same defect seen from five directions, and the defect is one sentence written for good reasons with no visible cost at the time.
The fabric that does not fit
Every solve in this collection minimises an energy over a centre line, and a centre line has no thickness. Nobody had checked whether the fabric that comes out of it can be built. It cannot: two adjacent courses of the relaxed jersey approach to four fifths of a yarn diameter, so the yarn passes through itself, at rest, everywhere.
The flattening nobody fitted
A yarn in cloth is not round, everybody knows it, and nothing has ever predicted how flat. This collection's own knitted geometry turns out to require a flattening of four fifths — from a solve that knew nothing about flattening, made no allowance for it, and would have been written the same way if the idea had never occurred to anybody.
A flattening that follows the tightness factor
Eighteen solved fabrics — five loop lengths, three relaxation states, three counts — and the flattening each one's geometry demands falls on a single curve against one dimensionless group. Nothing about the fibre or the count survives except through that group, which is what turns an arithmetical result into a structural requirement.
A loop bends at twice its own radius
A rod of radius r cannot be bent to a centre-line radius below r without occupying its own space. A knitted loop's tightest bend is at 2.04 yarn radii — twice the hard limit, and falling as the fabric tightens. That is a ceiling on how tight a knit can be, from contact alone.
Contact is not why a jersey stops
The model says a jersey can be pulled to three hundred and twenty per cent along its courses. Real ones stop at about a hundred. The recorded diagnosis was that nothing stops adjacent courses passing through one another — and giving the yarn a thickness closes seven per cent of a gap of two thirds.
What holds a crest apart
Two half periods meet at every crest of every course and, in this collection's model, run within a fiftieth of a yarn diameter of one another for more than a millimetre. In a fabric what holds them apart is the loop of the next course drawn between them — which is the loop this model does not have.
A tuck is the one stitch that links twice
Knitting has three stitches and only one of them makes a new link. A knit stitch links a loop to the loop below; a miss links nothing; and a tuck holds two loops in one head — which is why a tuck stops a run and why the three cannot be described by one number.
A circular machine leans its courses whatever the yarn
Spirality is blamed on the yarn, and the yarn is most of it. The rest is the machine's. A circular knitting machine's needles make wales that run straight along the tube, and its feeders lay one course each per turn, so every course climbs its feeder count in every round: on a 96-feeder machine, 48 millimetres round 162 centimetres of tube, an angle of 1.7 degrees. The helix has no machine size in it, its hand is set by the way the cylinder turns, and it survives every remedy aimed at the yarn — a steamed yarn, a plied one, S and Z on alternate feeders, and a rib.
A tuck decides whether a third of two-bed fabrics lean
A jersey leans because every loop is on one bed and a rib does not because its loops are mirrored across two, and the count that says so treated a tuck as nothing. A tuck is a loop of the same lively yarn wrapped round a needle of one bed, and nobody here has measured how much of a knit loop's lean it carries. It matters. Of the 1,135 two-bed fabrics a two-needle, two-course frame can make, 135 are balanced whatever a tuck carries and 612 lean whatever it carries — and 388, a third, are balanced under one answer and lean under the other. A half-cardigan leans a third of a jersey if a tuck carries nothing and not at all if it carries a full loop's torque, which makes it the instrument that would settle the question.
Two bars cannot share a beam
Two guide bars each make one overlap a course and one underlap, and the overlap is the same object on both — the same needle, the same loop. So the difference in what they consume is exactly the difference in their underlaps, with no model of a loop in it: a cord bar wants 111 metres more yarn per wale than a tricot bar over a hundred-metre piece, and a satin bar 232. A shared beam is one course spacing of slack out after less than half a course.
The shog is the anisotropy
An underlap is a straight run from one needle to another on the next course, so it is a hypotenuse — and its length is fixed while the two spacings are not. Pulling the fabric wider turns it towards the horizontal and pulls the courses together, on a circle. Every state a warp knit's underlaps allow lies on that circle, its as-knitted point sits where the shog puts it, and the ratio of the length it can give to the width it can give runs from 2.3 at a tricot to 218 at four needle spaces.
A heel turns a right angle because of the loop
A sock's heel is knitted in short rows on half the needles until a third are left, then back out again. Down the back line that adds a length of courses, and a tube's back line longer than its front by that much has turned through π times two thirds over the loop's own aspect — 93.8 degrees, on any needle count, in any yarn. The trade's third is the loop's shape in disguise. What the rule does not do is make a bend: the heel supplies two thirds of the fabric a true right angle needs, and every missing stitch is on its sides.
A knitted disc is flat at one shape of loop
A disc lies flat only if its circumference grows by exactly 2π per unit of radius, and a knitted disc's growth is a count of loops in one direction over a count in the other. So it is flat at one value of the loop's aspect and no other. Knitted sideways in wedges of short rows the growth falls as the loop gets wider; knitted outward in rounds it rises. Four wedges and ten increases every two rounds are each flat at an aspect inside the range plain knit moves through when it is washed — and they cross it in opposite directions.
A knitted ball's short rows have to slow down
A knitted disc needs one count to meet 2π; a sphere needs a count that follows a sine. Knitted sideways in gores, a ball's short rows must turn one stitch apart at the pole and ever further apart towards the equator — evenly spaced turns knit two flat discs joined at the rim. The pole is the disc again, so gores come in fours; the equator's row pairs have to come out whole, so only some sizes knit round; and a wash moves a four-gore ball from a ruffled pole to a round one.
A ball knitted in rounds washes the other way
A ball can be knitted sideways in gores or outward from one pole in rounds, and both have to follow the same sine. But a gore counts its meridian in stitches and its circumference in rows, and a round counts them the other way, so the loop's aspect sits underneath one construction and on top of the other. A wash raises the aspect — and closes a gored ball's ruffled poles while it opens a round-knitted ball's.
Stacked increases knit a ball with flat sides
A ball knitted in rounds can put its increases anywhere in each increase round. Stack them in lines from pole to pole and every stitch between two lines has a flat knit's neighbours, so the ball is made of flat panels and all its curvature sits on the lines. Flat panels with straight rows close up without stretching in exactly one way: every round a regular polygon, each pole a point. At five lines that ball is 13 per cent taller than it is wide across its ridges and 40 per cent across its flats, and to make it round the stuffing has to stretch the middle of every panel by π²/4m² — nine per cent at five lines, less than a wash moves a course at ten.
A patterned warp knit needs a stroke as long as its stripe
A guide bar that changes its shog from course to course takes yarn at a changing rate from a beam that delivers at one. The overlap is the same on every course, so it cancels again, and the running shortfall is the sum of each course's underlap less the mean — exact, with no loop in it. It returns to nought every repeat and strays inside it by a stroke that something must absorb. For a stripe the stroke is about the stripe's own height in the cloth, whatever the machine's gauge. The same twelve courses of tricot and satin need six times the stroke in two blocks as alternating, and of all 924 orderings exactly one pattern needs the least.
A tuck held two courses is a second unknown
Counting a tuck as a share of a knit loop's torque assumed every tuck loop carries the same share, however long its needle holds it. A needle that tucks on two courses running holds two loops in one hook and casts them off together, and nothing says that second loop carries what a single tuck does. Give the held loop its own share and every structure hangs straight on a line in a square of two unknowns rather than at a point on one. Of the 9,581 three-course fabrics that looked immune to the tuck, 1,788 are immune only if a held loop carries exactly what a single tuck does — and if a hold carries one tuck's torque however many loops it holds, 13,337 are immune instead. Two small structures, each straight under one account and leaning under the other, would say which.
Opposed bars even a warp knit by locking it
Two patterning bars knitting the same stripe can be set so that each bar's long underlaps fall where the other's are short. Neither bar's stroke changes, and every course then carries the same total yarn — but that is not why the cloth comes out even. Every course pairs a long underlap with a short one, the long one stops the width and the short one stops the length, and so every course gives like the stiffer bar in both directions. The evenness is bought with the stripe's give.
Mechanics and drape
Cloth as a mechanism rather than a material. The bias, the angle at which threads jam, and why a flat sheet cannot cover a sphere.
The bias is a mechanism
Cloth cut at forty-five degrees stretches by a third and springs back, while the threads in it stretch by nothing at all. Almost every explanation given for this is wrong, and the right one is not about elasticity.
The locking angle
The bias runs out at an angle that yarn diameter and thread spacing decide between them. It is the number behind whether a cloth will go round a curve, and it has nothing to do with how strong the fabric is.
Why clothes need darts
A flat cloth goes round a cylinder for nothing and cannot go round a sphere at all without shearing. The amount of shear is decided by the curvature, and when it exceeds what the threads allow, something has to be cut out.
Bending stiffness and the drape coefficient
Two standard measurements try to say how a fabric hangs. One measures a length and cubes it; the other measures an area and, on the geometry, turns out to be answering a different question from the one it is asked.