Threads

Themes

Fields say what an essay is about. Themes say what it rhymes with — the motifs that keep turning up in places that have no business being related.

A weave is a matrix

Warp up or warp down at every intersection, over a repeat that tiles the cloth. That is not an encoding of a weave — it is the weave, and it makes almost every question about it decidable.

8 essays

Does it hang together

A draft can look entirely reasonable on point paper and describe cloth that falls into two layers, or has threads lying loose on the surface. The failure is invisible and the test is exact.

2 essays

The float decides

How far a thread travels on the face before it goes under is the quantity behind lustre, drape, snagging, abrasion and how close the cloth can be set. Almost nothing else has that reach.

4 essays

Exactly this many

There is no regular satin on six ends, and the reason is a one-line argument about common factors rather than a rule of thumb. Counts in this subject are more often theorems than tallies.

2 essays

A mechanism, not a material

Cloth on the bias stretches half as long again while no thread in it stretches at all. The deformation is kinematic — a trellis closing — and almost every explanation given for it is wrong.

6 essays

Measured, not claimed

Thread count, breathability, the strength of satin: the trade is full of numbers that do not mean what they are taken to mean. Where a claim is refuted here, it is refuted by a computation.

10 essays

Structure before fibre

Most of what a fabric does follows from how it is put together rather than from what it is made of. The same yarn gives a shirting or a satin, and they behave nothing alike.

9 essays