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Essays arrive in groups rather than one at a time. The most recent group is below in full, and every earlier one after it, newest first.

Essays arrive in groups rather than one at a time, and a group usually opens up a subject not covered before. Between one group and the next nothing changes, so a reader who has seen the most recent group has seen everything.

3 November 2026

7 essays on compound and figured cloths, what cloth is, cloth doing a job, after the loom, mechanics and drape, pattern and colour and weaves

Compound and figured cloths

A leno's slackener only has to arrive

A slackener that lets the doup down in step with the loop keeps a leno's partner clear at every moment of the shed, and it looked as though a real one would have to track that closely. It does not. A partner's tension only rises as the shed opens, so a slackener can leave its whole drop until three quarters of the way up and the peak does not move at all. Lateness is paid for elsewhere: starting later than 0.58 of the shed rubs the loop more than having no slackener, and above 234 picks a minute a falling weight cannot start as late as the partner would let it.

7 figures

A bay window's drops cut from one roll, three ways. Four drops of 250 cm and two of 140 cm cut from one roll of a 64 cm repeat, drawn along the roll to scale with the cloth lost between drops shaded. A straight match loses 76 cm at best. A half-drop cut in hanging order loses 154 cm. The same half-drop in its best order loses 44 cm, by keeping the long drops together, where each loses 6 cm, and changing class only after a short drop, which prefers to.

What cloth is

A bay window wastes less than a wall

When a job's drops are all one length, a half-drop's best cutting order has one forced move, because the cutter has to change class once whatever the drops would prefer. Mix the lengths, as a bay window or a window over a radiator does, and each length sets its own price for what follows it. Six drops then lose a quarter of a repeat a gap instead of three tenths. Whether every drop can have its way is the bridges of Königsberg on two islands, and for a straight match mixing the lengths does almost nothing: its order can only choose which drop is cut last.

7 figures

Cloth doing a job

A fibre end prickles only inside a window

A fibre end pressed against skin has two ways to fail to hurt. Too long, and the column lies over before it reaches the force a nerve answers to. Too short, and the tip cannot sink far enough into something as soft as skin to push that hard. The two limits run opposite ways with diameter and they cross, so a fibre below one diameter cannot prickle at any length at all — and that diameter has no protruding length in it. It also settles a sum left unweighed: a crop at 1.1 mm makes a wool cloth two and a half times worse, and one at 0.6 mm removes the prickle.

8 figures

The ring across eight dips, for each fibre. The ring's depth after each of eight twenty-second dips, where an empty fibre left in the bath for good would fill by 20% a dip. instant fibre: 14.0% after one and 23.5% after eight; τ = 20 s: 13.0% after one and 19.6% after eight; τ = 100 s: 23.1% after one and 26.1% after eight; τ = 400 s: 35.5% after one and 36.6% after eight. An instant fibre earns its ring by saturating the skin dip by dip. A slow one starts near its final depth, since it never fills its skin.

After the loom

A slow fibre starts its ring deep

Every account of an indigo dip here lets a cotton fibre take its dye at once. Give the fibre a clock of its own and the ring does not simply run deeper, which is what the question seemed to ask. A clock of a few seconds makes the ring shallower, by nearly a fifth at most, and only past about twenty-six seconds does it run deeper than an instant fibre's. Two sections tell the accounts apart that one cannot: an instant fibre earns its ring dip by dip, from 14 to 23.5 per cent of the radius over eight dips, and a fibre with a hundred-second clock starts at 23 and ends at 26.

7 figures

One surplus, three depths, one slope. A 300 mm width of three cloths under 5 newtons per metre, each shortened by 1.0%, drawn at one scale in both directions. a chiffon has wrinkles 43 mm apart and 1.4 mm deep; a shirting has wrinkles 127 mm apart and 4.1 mm deep; a coating has wrinkles 249 mm apart and 8.0 mm deep. All three leave the plane at the same steepest slope, 11.5°, because that slope is set by the surplus alone.

Mechanics and drape

A stiff cloth's wrinkle is deeper and no steeper

Stiffness sets how far apart a wrinkle's crests lie, and the surplus length it has to hide sets the rest. Scale a wrinkle up and its slopes do not change, so one per cent of surplus leaves a chiffon, a shirting and a coating all at 11.5 degrees, 1.4 to 8 millimetres deep. The steepness has no cloth in it — and steepness is what a light reads.

7 figures

A 2/2 twill line's ends where the reed leaves them. A light warp line 3 ends wide in a dark 2/2 twill, with the ends drawn at their true places at a cover of 60% and both boundaries traced. Set evenly the edge swings 2.00 thread spacings. With 3 ends to a dent, closed by 40% of a spacing so that they touch, and the line on the dent's edge, it swings 1.20. One end along in the same reed it swings 2.40, more than if it had been set evenly. The weave and the reed are the same in the last two. Only where the line starts has changed.

Pattern and colour

A stripe's edge is cleanest inside one dent

No weave can draw a line with a straight edge, since the thread at the boundary must go under somewhere. A cloth has one freedom its weave lacks, which is the spacing of its ends, and it looked as though crowding a stripe's outer end could halve the swing. It cannot, in most cloth: two ends stop at a diameter apart, so the swing falls only as far as the cover. The freedom that costs nothing is another one. A line's narrowest unbroken width is exactly its swing plus one, so it fits one dent of a reed, and the same reed gives 1.2 thread spacings or 2.4 according to which end of the dent the line begins on.

6 figures

Weaves

A tucked edge stands proud because its warp goes straight

A tucked zone holds two picks in every shed, and the obvious account is that the pairs run out of room and bulge. The loom says otherwise: the warp is let off as one sheet and the cloth taken up at one speed, so the zone's ends have only the body's length to spend. They rise less. The weft takes up the height, so the edge is proud well before the pairs stop fitting, and they stand up well after the count says they must.

8 figures

Before that

Everything published earlier, newest first. Titles only — the cards are on the full listing.

30 October 2026

1 essay on knits and other structures

Opposed bars even a warp knit by locking it — knits and other structures

25 October 2026

2 essays on compound and figured cloths and setting and geometry

A leno's slackener eases the partner, not the doup — compound and figured cloths
The singles pay once and every level adds a helix — setting and geometry

21 October 2026

2 essays on what cloth is and knits and other structures

A half-drop wastes less, cut in the right order — what cloth is
A tuck held two courses is a second unknown — knits and other structures

19 October 2026

2 essays on setting and geometry and pattern and colour

A cable weighs its singles at the twists the finished thread keeps — setting and geometry
A pane leaned forward loses the sky and finds no darker mirror — pattern and colour

14 October 2026

2 essays on compound and figured cloths and weaves

One weight under a leno pair ends on one end — compound and figured cloths
A tucked-in edge asks every weave the odd repeat's question — weaves

5 October 2026

2 essays on what cloth is and setting and geometry

A spun cloth dries by its weight — what cloth is
Two thirds is where a fold weighs its singles — setting and geometry

2 October 2026

3 essays on what cloth is, weaves and after the loom

An eight-shaft error hides in the row's mirror — what cloth is
The window that names a cloth is half its repeat — weaves
Indigo is too little to close the pores it dyes through — after the loom

30 September 2026

4 essays on compound and figured cloths, weaves, knits and other structures and pattern and colour

A figure woven on one beam shows its columns off the mirror — compound and figured cloths
A reed can dent a sateen out of its row and not a satin — weaves
A patterned warp knit needs a stroke as long as its stripe — knits and other structures
An upper pane mirrors a sky no curtain can afford — pattern and colour

28 September 2026

3 essays on what cloth is, setting and geometry and pattern and colour

A spin leaves the water a fibre swelled by — what cloth is
A warp breaks in a tail no tensile test reaches — setting and geometry
Only one start in six can reach the shallowest shading — pattern and colour

26 September 2026

6 essays on after the loom, cloth doing a job and knits and other structures

A crease along the twill fades as one line — after the loom
A sweating cloth wicks as high as the room can dry it — cloth doing a job
Stacked increases knit a ball with flat sides — knits and other structures
A fibre that fills dyes deeper with every dip — after the loom
An air arch pays for its thrust out of its pressure — cloth doing a job
Wicking borrows drying area from the cloth that is not touching — cloth doing a job

25 September 2026

10 essays on after the loom, compound and figured cloths, what cloth is, pattern and colour and weaves

A dip dyes a depth, not a share — after the loom
A ring-dyed yarn whitens all at once — after the loom
A float fades late and hard, a crossing early and soft — after the loom
A leno easer should be a light weight — compound and figured cloths
A proof plan has no slide in it — what cloth is
Glass hides a black net and not a white voile — pattern and colour
A blind cell costs half the cloths at any real repeat — pattern and colour
A crease across a twill fades in dashes — after the loom
A cut pile sheds in two stages — compound and figured cloths
A weave holds its selvedge with two of its own columns, or not at all — weaves

24 September 2026

11 essays on pattern and colour, compound and figured cloths, weaves, what cloth is, knits and other structures and setting and geometry

A blind set hides less the thinner it is spread — pattern and colour
A blade leaves loose fibre in every tuft — compound and figured cloths
A lamp off the mirror lights a satin only across its floats — weaves
A sheer's privacy is the error it multiplies — pattern and colour
Silence lives in the lifting plan — what cloth is
A figured warp pays in tension before it needs a beam — compound and figured cloths
A knitted ball's short rows have to slow down — knits and other structures
A satin mirrors the top of the sky — weaves
The loom hands the crimp to the weft — setting and geometry
A ball knitted in rounds washes the other way — knits and other structures
A jersey's drape does not know its loop — setting and geometry

23 September 2026

13 essays on what cloth is, after the loom, pattern and colour, cloth doing a job, knits and other structures, weaves, compound and figured cloths and setting and geometry

A second wrong digit is silent only by cancelling the first — what cloth is
A calender's best cloth is the one its nip fills — after the loom
A ridge in the matrix is not a ridge in the cloth — what cloth is
An eight-end shading is pinned at three everywhere but its centre — pattern and colour
A band presses where the limb turns — cloth doing a job
A heel turns a right angle because of the loop — knits and other structures
A room lights a satin at the harmonic mean of its lamps — weaves
A stitch takes back what the parallel rule cannot see — compound and figured cloths
A knit's weight nearly names its yarn — setting and geometry
A knitted disc is flat at one shape of loop — knits and other structures
A wick reaches its ceiling in the time its cloth takes to dry — cloth doing a job
The width of a bolt is worth what its faults leave it — cloth doing a job
A stepped stocking should step most at the ankle — cloth doing a job

20 September 2026

13 essays on what cloth is, after the loom, compound and figured cloths, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, cloth doing a job, weaves and setting and geometry

A specification can name a cloth that is not there — what cloth is
A calender works where nothing has been measured — after the loom
The second binder buys half of everything — compound and figured cloths
The shortest notation has the longest mistakes — what cloth is
A covered cloth cannot be calendered — after the loom
The colour order that hides least — pattern and colour
Two bars cannot share a beam — knits and other structures
Two layers are warmer than they are thick — compound and figured cloths
A cam easer gives its slack too early — compound and figured cloths
A drying cloth cannot lift what a sealed tube can — cloth doing a job
No cloth shines under a sky — weaves
The shog is the anisotropy — knits and other structures
The energy has no crimp ratio to give — setting and geometry

17 September 2026

11 essays on pattern and colour, compound and figured cloths, after the loom, weaves, knits and other structures and setting and geometry

An even shading cannot keep its surface level — pattern and colour
A heddle eye lets the kink through — compound and figured cloths
A net of three directions beats a voile one way at a time — pattern and colour
A colour-and-weave look costs its cheaper order — pattern and colour
A figured warp needs a beam for every share of its figure — compound and figured cloths
A nap is paid for by the taper of the pattern — after the loom
A satin's row belongs to its sett — weaves
A tuck decides whether a third of two-bed fabrics lean — knits and other structures
A turned block is a moved origin — pattern and colour
A cloth's derivation class is its census of small patches — weaves
A weight fixes the fibre and not the drape — setting and geometry

15 September 2026

19 essays on pattern and colour, compound and figured cloths, what cloth is, weaves, after the loom and cloth doing a job

A net in front gives the figure to the room — pattern and colour
A curtain is gathered so that it is seen edge-on — pattern and colour
A loop has a maximum force in it — compound and figured cloths
What a sheer hides is decided by the furniture — pattern and colour
A bouclé wears from the loops down — compound and figured cloths
An unbroken line is not a clean one — pattern and colour
The census counted two systems and a surface has one — what cloth is
A jacquard's harness has a depth after all — compound and figured cloths
Four drafts in five have no path along their own crowns — what cloth is
The finest colour-and-weave effects need the rarest loom — pattern and colour
A cotton's own water is a twentieth of what a cloth holds — what cloth is
A damask is the only figure that costs its beam nothing — compound and figured cloths
No cloth derives into more than three others — weaves
A float limit leaves one row-free satin — weaves
A jersey has no float for a wire to catch — after the loom
A wet fibre is stiffer and a wet yarn is not locked — what cloth is
An irregular satin scatters where a regular one lines up — weaves
A grade charges by the length and a cutter pays by the panel — cloth doing a job
A fault map is worth most where the grade is worst — cloth doing a job

13 September 2026

9 essays on pattern and colour, compound and figured cloths, what cloth is, cloth doing a job and knits and other structures

A figured sheer is a negative from one side — pattern and colour
A net over a voile beats through a harmonic — pattern and colour
A six-end shading can be even or have a plain centre, not both — pattern and colour
An easer gives back the kink the crossed shed puts in — compound and figured cloths
A bouclé loop is an elastica, not a semicircle — compound and figured cloths
A skew steps at every seam and a bow at none — what cloth is
A tube of one size presses the calf harder than the ankle — cloth doing a job
A circular machine leans its courses whatever the yarn — knits and other structures
An inflated beam wrinkles at a moment with no cloth in it — cloth doing a job

12 September 2026

15 essays on pattern and colour, compound and figured cloths, what cloth is and weaves

A damask's edge floats further than its figure — pattern and colour
Two sheers make a moiré that walks with the viewer — pattern and colour
A point tie nearly doubles the float at the turn — compound and figured cloths
A sheer hides whichever side is darker — pattern and colour
A brocade weft floats as far as the next figure — compound and figured cloths
A weft stripe is counted in pairs of picks — pattern and colour
A jacquard harness needs three half-spans of height — compound and figured cloths
No weave draws an unbroken line one thread wide — pattern and colour
A double cloth is only softer if its yarn is set — compound and figured cloths
The doup end pays for the crossing — compound and figured cloths
A bouclé is set by its loops and weighed by its count — compound and figured cloths
Two lots of one cloth drift apart down a drop — what cloth is
Most satins still have a diagonal — weaves
A cloth slips at its least-interlaced thread — weaves
A selvedge holds only where its edge end changes face — weaves

10 September 2026

20 essays on pattern and colour, compound and figured cloths, what cloth is, weaves and after the loom

A tone ramp is a valley, and the satin digs it — pattern and colour
A tone step does not need a satin — pattern and colour
A weave is a halftone screen with n greys — pattern and colour
An interchange joins what a stitch would have had to — compound and figured cloths
A colour order beats the weave it is threaded on — pattern and colour
Two layers need two beams — compound and figured cloths
A moiré is a vernier, and it magnifies the error too — pattern and colour
The repeat allows four layers and the loom allows two — compound and figured cloths
A designed thin place is kinder than an accidental one — compound and figured cloths
A fancy yarn has its crimp in the wrong thread — compound and figured cloths
A repeat has to fit the width — what cloth is
A group is one thread for cover and two for bending — weaves
A repeat has to fit the panel, and the panel is cut — what cloth is
A cord's height has a ceiling and its width has none — weaves
A profile draft is a notation whose alphabet is weaves — what cloth is
A lifting plan says nothing without a threading — what cloth is
The four named weaves are corners of a family — weaves
What nothing separates comes out together — weaves
A wrinkle cannot settle what a crease settles — after the loom
A crease cannot cross a seam — after the loom

5 September 2026

50 essays on pattern and colour, compound and figured cloths, what cloth is, weaves, knits and other structures, setting and geometry, after the loom, cloth doing a job and mechanics and drape

A crepe is a yarn that will not lie still — pattern and colour
A shadow stripe is two twists — pattern and colour
A leno twists what a weave only crosses — compound and figured cloths
A braid is a third way to hold threads — compound and figured cloths
Why a knit runs and a weave frays — what cloth is
The closest approach is not the crossing — what cloth is
Where a yarn is thinnest — what cloth is
A woven cloth is not linked at all — weaves
A fabric is a population of contacts — what cloth is
A jersey's course has no writhe — knits and other structures
A woven cloth asked the same question — weaves
A point cannot link — knits and other structures
Five symptoms of one omission — knits and other structures
Why a slack yarn snarls — setting and geometry
A yarn that has been set has no torque — after the loom
How much yarn has to hang — setting and geometry
The fabric that does not fit — knits and other structures
The twist a fabric gives back — after the loom
A snarl comes in one size — setting and geometry
The flattening nobody fitted — knits and other structures
A wet knit's yarn is flatter — after the loom
The folding rule is not a torque balance — setting and geometry
A flattening that follows the tightness factor — knits and other structures
A knot is nothing but contact — cloth doing a job
What wetting does to the bending limit — after the loom
The folding rule is a surface angle — setting and geometry
Where a knot breaks — cloth doing a job
A loop bends at twice its own radius — knits and other structures
The diameter that does need a state — after the loom
What a balanced yarn is balanced about — setting and geometry
A knot halves a yarn and says why — cloth doing a job
Contact is not why a jersey stops — knits and other structures
A cabled yarn is a fold of folds — setting and geometry
Which yarns knot well — cloth doing a job
What holds a crest apart — knits and other structures
What a high-twist yarn costs a cloth — setting and geometry
A tuck is the one stitch that links twice — knits and other structures
What a sett is when the yarn is not round — setting and geometry
A thread has a second stiffness — mechanics and drape
What a flattened yarn does to its cover — setting and geometry
Twist is not torsion — mechanics and drape
The count that decides how flat — setting and geometry
The one fibre whose answer is known — mechanics and drape
What a closed thread cannot choose — mechanics and drape
Where a torsion model stops — mechanics and drape
Flattening is free and impossible — mechanics and drape
The section that changes both stiffnesses — mechanics and drape
What a contact model would have to do — mechanics and drape
A fabric reads its own bracket four ways — mechanics and drape
Where this collection's thread model now stands — mechanics and drape

3 September 2026

20 essays on knits and other structures, what cloth is, after the loom, setting and geometry, cloth doing a job and mechanics and drape

A rib climbs a gap — knits and other structures
What a thickness gauge reads on a knit — what cloth is
Every fabric's thread lies in a plane — what cloth is
Where a two-bed fabric's yarn is — knits and other structures
A rib is quietest at two diameters — knits and other structures
Which knitted fabrics lie flat — knits and other structures
A tube and an interlock balance for different reasons — knits and other structures
A state is a thickness too — after the loom
How thick a knit is — knits and other structures
The constants say nothing about thickness — after the loom
A rib's relaxation is not its bending either — after the loom
How dense a knitted fabric is — setting and geometry
A knit is warm because of where its yarn is not — cloth doing a job
What a cuff presses with — cloth doing a job
A run cannot cross a bed — cloth doing a job
A loop is a plane curve in another plane — mechanics and drape
What leaving the plane costs — mechanics and drape
The force that holds a knit open — mechanics and drape
How little asymmetry a curl needs — mechanics and drape
What a knit gives up when it is pressed — mechanics and drape

1 September 2026

20 essays on knits and other structures, after the loom, mechanics and drape, cloth doing a job and setting and geometry

A loop is nine tenths free run — knits and other structures
The relaxed knit is not at a minimum — knits and other structures
What a knit gives when it is pulled — knits and other structures
A jersey gets taller before it gets shorter — knits and other structures
How far a knit could go if its yarn were the limit — knits and other structures
A rib pulls back on a force the loop supplies — knits and other structures
A loop is set and not sprung — after the loom
Two knits with one tightness factor are one knit — after the loom
What holds a nap in a knit — after the loom
A thread between two crossings is an elastica — mechanics and drape
The knitted pilling criterion gets its number — cloth doing a job
A force is what an energy does when a crossing moves — mechanics and drape
A run is a race between two energies — cloth doing a job
A woven thread has no room to bend — setting and geometry
A seam must give what the knit gives — cloth doing a job
What a loop presses with — mechanics and drape
What a loop model still cannot say — mechanics and drape
The modulus a knit has instead of one — mechanics and drape
A knit bends more easily along its courses — mechanics and drape
What friction has to hold in a relaxed knit — mechanics and drape

31 August 2026

20 essays on pattern and colour, knits and other structures, what cloth is, compound and figured cloths, after the loom, cloth doing a job, mechanics and drape, weaves and setting and geometry

A cloth is more opaque than it is closed — pattern and colour
A knit gives up its fibres more easily — knits and other structures
A yarn's surface is a distribution — what cloth is
Hair, nap and pile are one construction — compound and figured cloths
A yarn has a diameter for every instrument — what cloth is
Two hairiness meters read two moments — what cloth is
A light touch never reaches the crowns — what cloth is
The hairs decide the sign of the wetting — what cloth is
A hair layer is a balance, not a stock — after the loom
Abrasion takes the hairs first — cloth doing a job
A pill is anchored, not made — cloth doing a job
A print is as sharp as the hairs are long — after the loom
The strong fibre is the one that pills — cloth doing a job
A compression curve is two laws in series — mechanics and drape
Prickle is a buckling load — cloth doing a job
A hair layer veils a highlight — weaves
A woven filter beats its own rating — cloth doing a job
Hairiness goes as the root of the count — setting and geometry
Warmth is mostly the hairs — mechanics and drape
The spinning triangle decides the hair — setting and geometry

30 August 2026

20 essays on what cloth is, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, compound and figured cloths, after the loom, cloth doing a job, weaves, mechanics and drape and setting and geometry

A cloth has an outside — what cloth is
The curve that says what a cloth touches with — what cloth is
A figure shows by its shine, not its step — pattern and colour
A jersey has two surfaces — knits and other structures
Two drafts of twenty-two thousand — what cloth is
How much of a cloth is touching — what cloth is
A pile is the only surface with no crowns — compound and figured cloths
A thickness gauge reads the draft — what cloth is
Raising moves the surface onto the hairs — after the loom
A cloth loses its strength before its mass — cloth doing a job
A coating fills the crowns before it bridges the holes — after the loom
A float reflects into a line — weaves
A seam stands proud and wears first — cloth doing a job
Friction is two surfaces, not one — after the loom
Lustre is a length times a width — weaves
A calender buys the width — weaves
A cloth compresses along its own bearing curve — mechanics and drape
Turn the cloth and the shine changes hands — weaves
A crepe is flat in its draft and not in its surface — weaves
The sett owns the pitch and the yarn owns the height — setting and geometry

28 August 2026

20 essays on what cloth is, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, compound and figured cloths, after the loom, cloth doing a job, mechanics and drape, setting and geometry and weaves

The spread was never free — what cloth is
The hairs are what touch — what cloth is
A cloth cannot be more even than its yarn — pattern and colour
Why a knit shows a thick place — knits and other structures
A tuft is set so it cannot untwist — compound and figured cloths
A chenille is a yarn that is already a fabric — compound and figured cloths
Singeing is the cheapest change to a surface — after the loom
A sewing thread is a different animal — cloth doing a job
A yarn breaks at its thinnest place — mechanics and drape
How many fibres make a thread — setting and geometry
A finer yarn is a worse yarn — setting and geometry
A straight fibre cannot share the load — mechanics and drape
The other crepe is in the yarn — weaves
The other half of the twist curve — setting and geometry
What grips the end of a fibre — mechanics and drape
Folding is untwisting — setting and geometry
The singles inside a ply are not the singles — mechanics and drape
A two-fold yarn is not twice a single — setting and geometry
Twist decides where in the bracket — mechanics and drape
The diameter was quoted at one twist — setting and geometry

27 August 2026

15 essays on what cloth is, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, compound and figured cloths, after the loom, cloth doing a job, mechanics and drape, setting and geometry and weaves

A cloth is a population, not a thread — what cloth is
A random error hides and a periodic one shows — pattern and colour
A course is one thread and a warp is many — knits and other structures
A slub finds the width of the cloth — pattern and colour
Three mistakes and the shape each one leaves — compound and figured cloths
A finish spends a spread before it spends a mean — after the loom
A tear asks fewer threads than a pull — cloth doing a job
A thickness is a maximum, not a mean — mechanics and drape
Half the air goes through a tenth of the holes — setting and geometry
What a missing end does to the weave — weaves
A bundle is weaker than its threads — mechanics and drape
A mispick is one row in the wrong place — weaves
A missing end is a fault the length of the piece — cloth doing a job
A warp jams where its threads are thickest — setting and geometry
Which weave hides a fault — weaves

26 August 2026

15 essays on what cloth is, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, compound and figured cloths, cloth doing a job, weaves, setting and geometry, after the loom and mechanics and drape

A hole is a channel, not an opening — what cloth is
Two layers are the product on average and nowhere — pattern and colour
Opacity is not cover — pattern and colour
A knit has no hole to lose — knits and other structures
A leno's hole cannot drift — compound and figured cloths
A filter is rated by the hole it does not show — cloth doing a job
A cloth stops having holes before it stops passing air — cloth doing a job
A windproof cloth is at its yarn's limit — cloth doing a job
Only a plain weave has one size of hole — weaves
The fourth power is a close cloth's rule — setting and geometry
A satin's hole is a slot — weaves
One minus the cover is a cloth with no thickness — setting and geometry
The pore that wicks is the pore that leaks — after the loom
The wind takes the air and not the cloth — cloth doing a job
Warmth is a thickness of air — mechanics and drape

24 August 2026

15 essays on what cloth is, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, compound and figured cloths, cloth doing a job, mechanics and drape, after the loom, weaves and setting and geometry

A cloth gives back less than it took — what cloth is
The most a cloth can give back — what cloth is
A motif is drawn at the wrong shape on purpose — pattern and colour
A knit relaxes for as long as it is allowed to — knits and other structures
A jersey leans because its yarn still turns — knits and other structures
A crushed pile is not held down by its fibres — compound and figured cloths
A knee is a dome imposed a thousand times — cloth doing a job
A cloth has one budget for two directions — mechanics and drape
A cloth shrinks most the first time — after the loom
A crease is a fold the crimp cannot supply — after the loom
How sharply a weave lets a cloth fold — weaves
Recovery is measured and nothing predicts it — mechanics and drape
The construction a loom must be set to — setting and geometry
A tensioned cloth loses its load — mechanics and drape
Which fibres crease, and why there are two answers — after the loom

22 August 2026

15 essays on what cloth is, knits and other structures, pattern and colour, compound and figured cloths, cloth doing a job, mechanics and drape, after the loom, setting and geometry and weaves

What water does to a thread — what cloth is
A yarn's voids are not enough — what cloth is
A loop has no closure condition — knits and other structures
A shading changes two things at once — pattern and colour
A knit's change of state is not its swelling — knits and other structures
A wetting supplies the force the criterion needs — compound and figured cloths
A garment is cut dry and worn wet — cloth doing a job
The swelling a cloth cannot take — mechanics and drape
Two shrinkages, one tape measure — after the loom
A wet cloth is set closer than it was woven — setting and geometry
The six-end satin that does exist — weaves
Water tells two fibres apart — mechanics and drape
Why felting needs water — after the loom
A seersucker is made at the loom — weaves
Wetting moves a cloth to another locus — setting and geometry

21 August 2026

15 essays on what cloth is, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, mechanics and drape, setting and geometry, compound and figured cloths, after the loom, cloth doing a job and weaves

A thread is gripped where it turns — what cloth is
Two coefficients, not one — what cloth is
A figured cloth has a step in its surface — pattern and colour
What stops a knit extending — knits and other structures
A flattened thread is a record of a force — mechanics and drape
Peirce and Kemp are one cloth at two moments — setting and geometry
The criterion gets a force — compound and figured cloths
The stiffness with no lower bound — mechanics and drape
Why agitation helps a cloth relax — after the loom
A calender spends the compression for good — after the loom
How far a cut edge frays — cloth doing a job
The cloth that was called impossible — setting and geometry
The relaxed cloth's contact force — mechanics and drape
A float presses on nothing — weaves
The half of the beat-up that is all zone — setting and geometry

20 August 2026

15 essays on what cloth is, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, mechanics and drape, setting and geometry, after the loom, compound and figured cloths, cloth doing a job and weaves

Every crossing is a force — what cloth is
A thread is held one crossing at a time — what cloth is
A rectangular block is not half a rule — pattern and colour
A knit is soft because it bends — knits and other structures
A yarn's stiffness is a bracket, not a number — mechanics and drape
What else the relative origin decides — pattern and colour
The crimp ratio is not a measurement — setting and geometry
What the shed costs, in newtons — mechanics and drape
The blow that sets the pick — setting and geometry
The locus gets a force — mechanics and drape
A cloth relaxes until its threads stop pushing — after the loom
A pick density is a force budget — setting and geometry
What holds a tuft in, in newtons — compound and figured cloths
A seam slips before it breaks — cloth doing a job
What combining two weaves reaches — weaves

19 August 2026

15 essays on what cloth is, pattern and colour, mechanics and drape, knits and other structures, setting and geometry, after the loom, compound and figured cloths, cloth doing a job and weaves

Four ways to write a weave down — what cloth is
A figure is not a stripe — pattern and colour
The shed is an extension — mechanics and drape
What a figure costs the loom — pattern and colour
A fashioned edge has a quantised angle — knits and other structures
A woven outline is a staircase — pattern and colour
The back shaft works hardest — mechanics and drape
A figure is harder on its warp — mechanics and drape
A tube can only be shaped by its loop — knits and other structures
The reed is not the sett — setting and geometry
The setts a loom can reach — setting and geometry
Coated is a state — after the loom
The harness has a depth — compound and figured cloths
A coated cloth fails at its holes — cloth doing a job
The three basic weaves do not generate the rest — weaves

18 August 2026

15 essays on what cloth is, mechanics and drape, pattern and colour, knits and other structures, setting and geometry, compound and figured cloths, cloth doing a job, after the loom and weaves

How many layers a draft can have — what cloth is
A cloth extends by moving its crimp — mechanics and drape
A stripe is a partition of the warp — pattern and colour
A check is two stripes and a tartan is one — pattern and colour
Pulled both ways, only one can give — mechanics and drape
A cloth's Poisson ratio is not a material's — mechanics and drape
A second bed changes what a float is — knits and other structures
Does a double jersey hang together — knits and other structures
The sett decides how much, not how high — setting and geometry
A tube and two cloths are the same draft — compound and figured cloths
How high a cloth wicks — cloth doing a job
The constants do not compose — after the loom
Where a stitch can hide — compound and figured cloths
A cord is a stripe with no colour in it — weaves
Wicking is slower along a crimped thread — cloth doing a job

16 August 2026

15 essays on mechanics and drape, pattern and colour, what cloth is, knits and other structures, setting and geometry, weaves and compound and figured cloths

A cloth cannot carry a push — mechanics and drape
Watered silk is a beat — pattern and colour
What a repeat repeats — what cloth is
Knit, tuck and miss — knits and other structures
The nodes a drape test throws away — mechanics and drape
The reed leaves its own mark — pattern and colour
What a tuck costs — knits and other structures
The float in a knit — knits and other structures
Twist is one angle — setting and geometry
Twist and the twill line — setting and geometry
What a fabric weighs — setting and geometry
A honeycomb gets its cells in the wash — weaves
Where the heddles go — compound and figured cloths
A crepe cannot be structureless — weaves
A hole with nothing crossing — weaves

15 August 2026

15 essays on cloth doing a job

The crimp is the price of being cloth — cloth doing a job
A fabric to fill and a fabric to load — cloth doing a job
A tow is not a yarn — cloth doing a job
The third index is not a repeat — cloth doing a job
The hole between four threads — cloth doing a job
A filter cloth has two jobs — cloth doing a job
An inflated cylinder wants an unbalanced cloth — cloth doing a job
The angle a hose wants — cloth doing a job
A membrane is cut smaller than it is — cloth doing a job
The bias cut and the selvedge — cloth doing a job
A hemisphere costs one full turn — cloth doing a job
What holds a thread in a seam — cloth doing a job
The stitch that weakens the seam — cloth doing a job
A cloth does not mind a hole — cloth doing a job
A tear stops where the grip is — cloth doing a job

13 August 2026

15 essays on after the loom

What comes off the loom is not the cloth — after the loom
Relaxation is the crimp coming back — after the loom
Why the warp shrinks more — after the loom
A cloth cannot shrink past its own crimp — after the loom
Pre-shrinking is a subtraction done in advance — after the loom
The cloth gains weight by losing size — after the loom
The ratchet that makes wool felt — after the loom
Milling holds the cloth a second time — after the loom
Shrink-resist is one number — after the loom
Calendering is the cloth arriving at the other model — after the loom
Mercerising is a packing factor — after the loom
Only a float can be raised — after the loom
Raising spends the cloth's strength — after the loom
A knit's dimensions come from its loop — after the loom
A dimension without a state — after the loom

11 August 2026

15 essays on compound and figured cloths, what cloth is, pattern and colour and weaves

The harness does not grow — compound and figured cloths
What a dobby stores — compound and figured cloths
A jacquard is every end its own shaft — compound and figured cloths
What the matrix cannot say — what cloth is
A damask is its own complement — compound and figured cloths
How many cloths are there — pattern and colour
Pile is a third thread system — compound and figured cloths
How a tuft is held — compound and figured cloths
Corduroy is a cut float — compound and figured cloths
Terry needs two beams — compound and figured cloths
Velvet is cut apart — compound and figured cloths
Leno is not a matrix — compound and figured cloths
What holds a pick in — compound and figured cloths
How many shafts a draft needs — weaves
The criterion cannot see friction — compound and figured cloths

10 August 2026

12 essays on mechanics and drape, what cloth is, setting and geometry, knits and other structures and weaves

A drape coefficient is one number for a directional thing — mechanics and drape
Every cloth there is, at four by four — what cloth is
The weave decides the sett, and two models disagree about it — setting and geometry
What a second guide bar is for — knits and other structures
Where the cover factor comes from — setting and geometry
Why satin shines — weaves
What crimp interchange actually conserves — setting and geometry
Floats and abrasion — weaves
Does a loose weave tear better — weaves
Designing to a float limit — weaves
Which satins are worth weaving — weaves
How many twills a repeat admits — weaves

4–8 August 2026

34 essays on weaves, mechanics and drape, knits and other structures, setting and geometry, pattern and colour and what cloth is

Plain, twill and satin — weaves
The bias is a mechanism — mechanics and drape
The loop — knits and other structures
Thread count is not quality — setting and geometry
Weaves as plane patterns — pattern and colour
A fabric is a structure, not a material — what cloth is
Colour and weave — pattern and colour
Crimp, and why cloth narrows when it is pulled — setting and geometry
The draft is a matrix — what cloth is
The float decides — weaves
The locking angle — mechanics and drape
Why stockinette curls — knits and other structures
Does it hang together — what cloth is
How close can threads be set — setting and geometry
Ravel, fray and run — knits and other structures
The diagonal is not a thread — pattern and colour
There is no satin on six ends — weaves
Why clothes need darts — mechanics and drape
Bending stiffness and the drape coefficient — mechanics and drape
Braids and the third thread system — what cloth is
Interlacings and firmness — weaves
The seventeen groups a draft can have — pattern and colour
The yarn count systems, and why there are several — setting and geometry
Warp knitting, which is a different thing entirely — knits and other structures
Colour and weave as a two-colour problem — pattern and colour
Nonwovens, and what holds them together instead — what cloth is
Peirce against the racetrack, measured — setting and geometry
Rib and interlock — knits and other structures
Shear locking in a composite preform — mechanics and drape
Twill direction, and how it is named — weaves
Balance, and what an unbalanced cloth does — setting and geometry
Broken and herringbone twills — weaves
Why a knit recovers and a woven does not — knits and other structures
Backed and stitched constructions — weaves

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