Mechanics and drape

Where this collection's thread model now stands

A thread has two stiffnesses and a thickness, and this collection's model has had one stiffness and no thickness. Both were added in one phase, neither reached the question it was built for, and the accounting is worth more than either.

Worth reading first: Where a torsion model stops · What a contact model would have to do · What a loop model still cannot say.

This collection’s model of a thread was a curve with a bending stiffness. It minimised the integral of the square of its curvature subject to where its two ends had to be, and everything mechanical the site has computed came out of that.

A thread has two stiffnesses and it has a thickness, and the model had one of the first and none of the second.

Both were addressed in one phase. Neither reached the question it was built for. The accounting is worth more than either.

Two stiffnesses, one bracket, and a ratio that does not move. The bending and torsional rigidities of a cotton yarn against its count, each drawn at both ends of its own bracket, on a logarithmic scale. The four curves are two parallel pairs: the torsional bracket is the bending bracket exactly — the fibre count over the square of the packing factor, 327 at 20 tex — so the vertical gap between the two bounds is the same for both deformations. The consequence is the useful part: the ratio C/B is 0.250 at the top of the bracket and at the bottom and everywhere between, because the polar second moment of a circle is exactly twice its flexural one.
Fig. 1 The model’s central quantity and its central difficulty: two rigidities against the yarn count, each bracketed over two and a half orders. This collection’s most portable result is that the ratio between the pairs survives the gap inside each.

What was added

A torsional rigidity, with its own bracket, and the observation that the bracket is identical to the bending one — so the ratio C/B is 2G/E at both ends and everywhere between.

A shear modulus table for the ten fibres the collection carries, with one row whose answer was known in advance.

Two integrals: the Gauss writhe and the Gauss linking number, each a definition rather than an approximation, each checked against arrangements whose answers are known by inspection.

And a distance measurement over the model’s own solved fabric, which had never been made.

That is a table, a ratio and three routines. It is a small addition by the standards of the ladders that preceded it, and it produced more than either of them.

What it settled

A yarn’s two stiffnesses are in a fixed ratio, and the ratio is knowable when neither stiffness is.

A slack yarn’s snarl is a threshold and a length, and the length is bracket-free.

The trade’s folding rule is a surface-angle condition rather than a torque balance, and the surface rule reproduces all three of its numbers where the torque balance reproduces none.

A woven cloth’s threads are unlinked and a knitted fabric’s courses are linked once per wale, and the two failure modes everybody knows follow from those two integers.

A knitted fabric’s own geometry demands a flattened yarn, and the flattening follows the tightness factor.

Contact between courses does not explain the extension ceiling, which was the recorded diagnosis and is wrong.

And a woven cloth’s geometry demands almost no flattening, so the flattening a cloth’s section shows is a memory of the loom.

Seven, and none of them was the target of either ladder.

What flattening a section does to the ratio of the two stiffnesses. C/B is 2G/E for a circular section, because a circle's polar second moment is exactly twice its flexural one. A flattened section has two different flexural moments — easy about the long axis, hard about the short one — and the polar moment is still their sum, which is the perpendicular axis theorem and holds for any section whatever. So a flattened thread has three constants rather than two, and the multiplier on C/B depends on which way it is being bent. At the 0.78 a knitted fabric's own geometry demands, the easy direction multiplies the ratio by 1.322 and the hard one by 0.804. A knitted loop bends in the easy direction, so the collection's headline ratio is a lower bound for a yarn in cloth.
Fig. 2 The correction the two ladders paid each other: what flattening a section does to the ratio of its two stiffnesses. Neither ladder could have produced this, because one supplied the ratio and the other the flattening.
The flattening a knitted fabric asks for, against its own tightness. Every point is a solved fabric — 18 of them, over five loop lengths, three relaxation states and three counts — and the vertical axis is the closest its adjacent courses come, in diameters. The values run from 0.707 to 0.839 and they fall on one curve against the tightness factor, which is the model's only dimensionless group. That is what makes this a structural requirement rather than an arithmetical accident of one example: a tighter fabric demands a flatter yarn, by an amount its own tightness decides, and nothing about the fibre or the count enters except through that group.
Fig. 3 This collection’s most usable new number: the flattening a knitted fabric’s geometry demands, against its tightness factor, over eighteen fabrics. A parameter this site has swept since its second phase, predicted.

What it did not settle

Spirality, which the torsion ladder was built for. The mechanism needs the fabric to trade twist for writhe, and the model’s course has no writhe — exactly nought, by a mirror symmetry — so the nine degrees per unit of twist factor remains fitted.

The extension ceiling, which the contact ladder was built for. Stopping the courses overlapping moves it seven per cent against a gap of two thirds.

The wale-direction curl, untouched.

And the torsional share of a loop’s energy, which needs a solve whose configuration space includes the material’s rotation rather than only the centre line’s shape.

Both ladders reached their targets and found the obstacle was somewhere else. In both cases the obstacle was the same one.

The one obstacle

Five findings, recorded over three earlier ladders in four ladders, turn out to be one modelling decision.

The interlacing was declared to be a point where two centre lines pass one yarn diameter apart. That decision produced the fabric’s thickness, which is this collection’s most falsifiable knitted result, and it cost:

the course’s writhe, because a near miss has no handedness; the linking number between adjacent courses, because a point cannot link; the extension ceiling, because two threaded loops cannot separate and two passing ones can; the wale-direction curl, because the solve runs away to a configuration threaded neighbours would block; and the two half periods at a crest, which run within a fiftieth of a diameter because nothing is drawn between them.

One sentence, five symptoms, and it took a quantity that returns an integer to name it.

Two numbers that stay at zero however large the fabric gets. The linking number of two adjacent courses, and the writhe of one course per wale, for tubes of 6 to 20 wales. Both sit at zero and stay there: the largest departure anywhere on the plot is 1.5e+1, which is the sampling. A quantity that should grow with the fabric and does not is the cleanest kind of null result: the model has the geometry of knitting and none of its topology, and making the fabric bigger does not make the topology appear.
Fig. 4 The measurement that named it: both topological quantities of the model’s own fabric, against fabric size. Both sit at nought. A knitted fabric’s linking number would be one per wale and would climb off the top of this plot.

What the model can be trusted for

A reader wants a rule, and this work supplies a clean one.

Trust any quantity that is an integral over one segment. A stitch’s bending energy, the contact force, the fabric’s thickness, its rigidity in both directions, its thermal resistance, its fibre fraction, the pressure a cuff applies. Each is decided by where a half period’s two ends are and how much yarn runs between them, and threading the curve through another one changes none of them to first order.

Trust any comparison at fixed topology. A rib against a jersey, a tight fabric against a slack one, one relaxation state against another: the omission is the same on both sides and cancels.

Distrust anything about the fabric holding together. The extension ceiling, the run, the curl about the wale axis, the spirality.

And treat every null result with suspicion. Two of the collection’s knitted results are exactly nought, and only one of them is nought for a reason a fabric shares.

Four rules, and the first two cover most of what the collection has computed.

What this work changed about how to work

Three habits came out of it and all three are cheaper than the results.

Ask whether a model’s output can be built. Every gate on this site reads a fabric and asks whether something about it is right; not one asks whether the object is realisable. A distance calculation found a fabric occupying its own space, four ladders after the geometry was written.

Convert every threshold into a unit somebody would notice it in. A critical tension of 0.37 millinewtons is a number nobody can disagree with; 1.9 metres of the yarn’s own weight is a claim about something everybody has seen, and it settled a bracket by being disagreeable.

And ask of every null result whether it is zero for a reason the subject shares. A writhe of six parts in a million reads as a converged calculation of something negligible. It is a calculation of something forbidden.

How much of a yarn has to hang before it stops snarling. The tension a 20 tex cotton needs to stay straight, at each twist level, expressed as the length of the yarn's own weight that would supply it. The two curves are the two ends of the stiffness bracket: the fibres free to slide, and the section coherent. At 800 turns a metre they are 1.9 metres and 616. Anybody who has let go of a twisted yarn knows which of those is right, which makes this one of very few places where the bracket can be closed from the everyday end. Both rise as the square of the twist, because the torque does and the criterion is quadratic in it.
Fig. 5 The second habit, drawn: a critical tension expressed as the length of the yarn’s own weight that supplies it. Three hundred-fold between the two curves, and everyday experience sitting flatly on the lower one.

What is owed

The shortfall list, which is what a ladder leaves behind and what the next one reads.

The asymmetric solve. Two half periods that are not mirror images, with a closure condition between them. It stays a smooth equality-constrained problem, it would give the course a chirality, and it fixes three of the five symptoms. It is the cheapest item on the list and should be done first.

The contact solve, which is a different class of problem — a non-penetration inequality active on part of an unknown domain — and which fixes the other two. It costs fifteen per cent of a stitch’s yarn and a bend at the tightest radius in the fabric, and it should not be done for the thickness’s sake.

A knitted fabric’s shear stiffness, which nothing here has and which the spirality question needs alongside the writhe.

A torsion term in the loop’s own solve, which needs a configuration space that includes the material frame.

The set fraction, which multiplies every torque on the torsion ladder and which the snarl test would measure.

And a moisture argument to the diameter function, which would let every table on the site be computed at a stated moisture content rather than a dry basis.

Six items. One is half a day, three are a day or two each, one is a research programme, and one is a measurement rather than a calculation.

This work in one sentence each

For a reader who wants the two ladders compressed rather than summarised.

The torsion ladder added a second stiffness, found that its bracket is the bending one exactly and its ratio therefore knowable, used the ratio to settle a snarl and to refute a folding rule, and could not reach the spirality it was built for because the model’s fabric has no chirality.

The contact ladder gave the thread a thickness, found that the fabric it had been computing with occupies its own space, read the shortfall as a prediction of a parameter the site had swept for years, ruled out the extension ceiling’s recorded diagnosis, and could not repair the model because a non-penetration constraint is a different class of problem.

And together they found that four everyday observations place a yarn at the free end of its own stiffness bracket, that five recorded shortfalls are one modelling decision, and that a woven cloth’s geometry is nearly self-consistent where a knitted one’s is not — because one crosses its threads and the other runs them alongside.

Three sentences, two ladders, and the third is the one neither would have produced alone.

What was counted, and how

Every number in this rung is recomputed from this collection’s own functions rather than quoted from its essays, so a change anywhere would show here.

The bracket identity is checked across counts, fibres and packing factors at both ends, to a part in ten thousand million million.

The linking integral is checked against four arrangements whose answers are known by inspection, to four parts in ten thousand at four hundred segments a curve.

The overlap is checked as a band rather than as an inequality, so that a repaired model fails it — which is the signal that the ladder’s subject has been dealt with.

And the snarl threshold is checked at its degenerate case and as an exponent, because a relation that holds at one pair of points holds for any monotone function.

What a reader coming to this collection should take

A rung that closes a ladder should say what it says to somebody who does not intend to read the rest of it, and this one has a short answer.

A knitted fabric’s geometry and forces are computed here to a standard nothing else in the literature reaches, from first principles, with every input named and every bracket carried. Thicknesses, contact forces, rigidities, warmth, extension curves.

All of them are computed on a fabric whose loops are not threaded through one another, which is invisible in every one of those numbers and fatal to a different set.

The two sets are cleanly separable by one rule: local integrals survive and holding-together does not.

And the fabric’s own arithmetic now predicts one thing everybody else has fitted: how flat its yarn has to be.

That is a fair statement of a collection eighteen phases into a subject: better than the literature on the questions it has asked, silent on a class of question it had not framed, and honest about which is which.

A note on the shape of this work

This work took two questions rather than one and it is worth recording that the arrangement paid.

The torsion ladder needed a flattening to correct its headline ratio and would not have had one. The contact ladder needed a chirality argument to interpret its crest overlap and would not have had one. The bracket rung needed four observations and two of them came from each side.

Neither ladder alone produces its own best results, and the cross-products cost nothing.

That is an argument for pairing questions when work is planned, and it runs against the instinct — which is to go deep on one thing, because depth is what produces a ladder.

Both are right. The depth produces the machinery and the pairing produces the results, and work with only one of them gets half of what it could.

Where the model stops

The fibres are straight and parallel to the yarn’s axis. That idealisation runs through both brackets and is inherited rather than introduced.

The section is circular in every solve, and this collection’s own contact ladder says it is not — which puts a correction of about twenty per cent on the torsion ladder’s headline ratio in the direction the loop actually bends.

Nothing is re-solved under contact. Every measurement on the contact ladder is a diagnosis of a free solve.

And the yarn is elastic in torsion for ever, which it is not: a set yarn has no torque at any twist, and setting is the trade’s whole answer to liveliness.

Two things this work got wrong on the way

A ladder that reports only its findings is reporting half of itself, and two mistakes are worth recording because both are the kind that would be made again.

A closure was treated as free. The first attempt at a linking number joined a flat course’s two ends with a straight chord and got minus 0.037 — small enough to look like convergence, large enough to be a hundredth. A closure is part of the curve, and a quantity that must be an integer and comes back at a few hundredths is reporting its closure rather than its topology. The fix was to use a tube, which is a real fabric rather than a device.

And an empty search was read as a ceiling. The contact ceiling calculation asked for a round yarn at every extension and found nothing feasible anywhere. That is not a ceiling of nought; it is the relaxed fabric’s own overlap restated as an empty result, and recognising it took an afternoon. The fix was to ask for the flattening the fabric actually demands.

Both are the same mistake in different costumes: a result that looks like an answer and is a restatement of the question. Neither would have been caught by a tolerance, because both produced plausible numbers.

The generalisation

This collection’s most transferable finding is not a number and it is worth ending on.

A model’s missing piece is often not in the same category as its symptom.

Both ladders were built to supply something material — a second stiffness, a thickness — and both found that what was missing was topological: an arrangement rather than a constant. A fabric of folds has all the geometry of a knitted fabric and none of its integrity, and no material constant supplies the difference.

That is a hazard specific to a collection that computes well. A model with good arithmetic and a good energy will answer every question that is about arithmetic or energy, correctly, and will be silent rather than wrong about anything that is about arrangement — so its failures look like small numbers rather than like errors.

The instrument for that is an invariant: a quantity that takes an integer value, survives every constant, and cannot be nearly right.

This collection had one — the connected-components count that decides whether a draft makes one cloth — and used it for eighteen phases without recognising it as a member of a family. It has three now, and the oldest of them is the reason the site exists.

Where a fold's two moments cancel, and where the trade folds. The two moments about a fold's own axis, for 2 singles of 20 tex cotton at 800 turns a metre. The falling curve is what the singles' own residual twist supplies, which the folding takes out of them; the rising one is what bending each single onto its helix costs. They cross at 161 turns a metre, a ratio of 0.201, and the closed form for that crossing is C/(B+C) — the ratio of the two stiffnesses and nothing else. The shaded band is where the trade actually folds, 0.6 to 0.75 of the singles twist. The balance point is nowhere near it, by a factor of three.
Fig. 6 The refutation this work produced: two moments crossing at a fifth of the singles twist, with the trade’s own folding bracket shaded at seven tenths. No fibre in the collection’s table brings them together, which is what turns a disagreement into an impossibility.
What links what, in the two ways of making cloth. The linking number between two adjacent courses, for a knitted tube of 12 wales, for the same tube as this collection's model draws it, and for a woven cloth's two thread systems. The fabric's is 12 — one for every needle loop drawn through the loop below. The model's is -0.0000, because it places the interlacing at a point where two centre lines pass a diameter apart and two curves passing beside one another are not linked. The woven cloth's is -0.0000 and always will be, at any crimp and for every weave. That last row is not a defect of any model: a woven cloth really is unlinked, and it is the reason it frays where a knitted fabric runs.
Fig. 7 The family’s newest member: a linking number, computed for a knitted tube, for this collection’s model of one, and for a woven cloth. Two of the three rows are facts about fabric and the middle one is a defect, and no energy could have told them apart.

The three instruments this work leaves behind

Machinery outlasts results and this work leaves three pieces of it, each cheap and each reusable on questions nobody has asked yet.

The Gauss linking integral. Two closed curves in, one integer out. It works on any structure whose paths this collection can produce, and it has been applied to two of them. A rib, an interlock, a warp knit, a braid and a leno are all waiting.

The minimum-approach measurement. Two sampled curves in, a distance out. It answers “does this fit together” for any geometry the site can lay out, which is all of them, and it has been asked of two.

And the shear-modulus table, with its one row whose answer is known in advance — which is a pattern for how to build a table of constants that can be checked rather than trusted.

None of the three took long to build and all three found something on their first use. That is a reasonable expectation for an instrument in a collection this size: there is a great deal here that has never been measured, because nothing measured it.

Who found it, and when

Kirchhoff wrote the rod equations in 1859, Greenhill the stability criterion in 1883, Gauss the linking integral in 1833, Călugăreanu the twist–writhe identity around 1960, and Euler the capstan relation in 1775. None of the physics in this work is new.

Peirce’s cloth geometry is from 1937 and Munden’s knitted constants from 1959, and both are inputs rather than results here.

What is this collection’s own is the application: putting these instruments to its own model, on its own numbers, and reporting what they said about it — including the parts that were uncomfortable, which are the parts worth having.

Where the ladder goes next

Whoever writes the next ladder reads this list. The asymmetric solve is the first item and it is small; the flattening prediction wants a set of sections to check it against; and the snarl threshold wants a hanging loop, a balance and an afternoon.

None of those is a research programme, all of them are specified, and each closes something this work left open rather than opening something new — which is what a shortfall list is for.

What links here

Computed from the collection rather than written here: the essays that point at this one.

Shares its objects with

Essays naming at least two of the same things, that neither author linked.

Named objects

A flat tag is an object no other essay names yet.

Bending rigidityContactElasticaLinking numberLoopSpecificationTorsional rigidityWrithe