Textile Structure
how cloth is put together
Concept

Profile draft — where it appears

A block design drawn at one square per block, with the weaves filled in afterwards. Drawing the profile above the draft puts the small grid and the large one on the page together, which is the whole reason those figures exist.

Named by 6 essays across 2 fields — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

8-end satin figured on 8-end sateen. A 3 by 3 block profile, drawn above at one square per block, and the cloth it produces below at one square per intersection. The figure weave is 8-end satin and the ground is 8-end sateen, both single cloths on their own; each block is 8 ends and 8 picks. The composite is 1 cloth, with a longest float of 8 and 0 threads lying loose, all counted from the matrix that drew the picture.

A figure is not a stripe

Two sound weaves side by side always make sound cloth — that is a theorem, and it was proved here. Put one of them inside a *region* instead of a band and it stops being true, and whether it is true or not turns out to depend on a number that appears nowhere in either draft: where the two weaves start relative to each other.

pattern · Blocks What a figure costs in shafts. Two families of block designs in 8-end satin on 8-end sateen at blocks of 8. One repeats three block-columns however wide it gets and costs 24 shafts at every width from 24 to 120 ends. The other gives every block-column a different pattern and costs 16, 24, 32, 40, 48 shafts as it grows — exactly 8 more per new column. Shafts are counted as distinct columns of the composite matrix.

What a figure costs the loom

A block design's shaft count does not depend on how wide the figure is, or how deep, or how many blocks it has. It depends on how many *different* block-columns it has, and each new one costs exactly one repeat of the ground weave — 8 shafts, then 16, then 24, in a straight line with no slope to fit.

pattern · Blocks The staircase a woven outline is. Four straight edges on a block grid, stepping 1 across in 1, 1 across in 2, 2 across in 1, 1 across in 4. Each tread is one repeat of 8-end satin, which at 24 by 22 threads per centimetre is 3.33 mm across and 3.64 mm up. A jacquard hook at 140 cm width is 1.17 mm, so the machine resolves 2.9 times finer than the cloth can use.

A woven outline is a staircase

A jacquard's resolution is quoted as its hook count, and on a 1,200-hook machine 140 cm wide that is a step of 1.17 mm. The cloth cannot use it. A figure's smallest feature is one repeat of the ground weave, which on an eight-end satin is 3.33 mm — so the machine resolves nearly three times finer than the fabric can hold, and a finer machine buys nothing at all.

pattern · Blocks The block condition, one half at a time. Every block shape from 8×8 down, for 8-end satin figured on 8-end sateen, each an exhaustive census of all 65,536 four-by-four profiles. The bar is split: the dark part is figures that separate with a thread left loose on the face, and the light part is figures that separate with nothing visible wrong. Shapes satisfying the block condition in one direction only are marked, and none of them has a light part at all. What the chart cannot show is why: the census is exhaustive and the theorem behind it is not proved here.

A rectangular block is not half a rule

The block rule was proved for square blocks and the rectangular case was recorded as not run, on the grounds that a block a repeat wide and half a repeat deep satisfies only half the condition. Running it turns up two things: half the condition rules out the failure nobody can see, and a block turned through a right angle is a different design — which a square census cannot notice, because a square block is its own transpose.

pattern · Blocks Everything the relative origin decides. Each of six quantities computed from a weave matrix, swept over all 64 relative origins of 8-end satin figured on 8-end sateen. A quantity that takes one value across the sweep is a gauge freedom of the pair; one that takes several is something a designer chooses without knowing it. longest float takes 2 values; interlacing rate takes 2 values; weft-face fraction takes 3 values. The origins fall into 3 different partitions, so the moving quantities are not all decided by the same number. What the table cannot show is the census over all 65,536 profiles, which is a seventh column, and the one that showed the origin decides whether the cloth holds together.

What else the relative origin decides

Where two weaves start relative to each other decides whether the cloth holds together, and it has a second consequence beside that. Two is what a search finds when it looks twice. Sweeping every origin against every measure of the cloth turns up a third — the longest float, which is the one property a weaver actually looks at — and turns up an earlier figure caption that says the opposite.

pattern · Blocks Three places a mistake can be made, and three shapes it leaves. A loom holds a design in three separate objects, and a single mistake in each of them produces a fault of a completely different size — not because the mistakes differ, but because of how many intersections each object controls. On a 50 m piece of muslin 1500 mm wide, holding 396,000,000 intersections: one end drawn on the wrong shaft is wrong at every pick for the whole length, 110,000 of them; one pick made in the wrong shed is wrong across the whole width once, 3,600; and one shaft tied wrongly to one treadle is wrong wherever that shaft's ends meet that treadle's picks, which is everywhere — 6,187,500, or 1.6% of the cloth. The ratio between the extremes is 1719 to one, and the largest of the three is the one nobody sees happen, because every thread is exactly where it should be.

Three mistakes and the shape each one leaves

A loom holds a design in three separate objects, and one error in each of them is the same size of error. What they cost differs by a factor of seventeen hundred — and the largest of the three is the one nobody can see happening, because every thread is exactly where it should be.

fancy · Shafts

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

Block figureRepeatCloth integrityDamaskFigure and groundFloatPoint paperCensusConnectivityHarnessJacquardLifting plan

All concepts