Textile Structure
how cloth is put together
Concept

Nonwoven — where it appears

A fabric of fibres laid down without any thread system, so it has no repeat and no exact test for whether it holds together. Its coherence is a percolation threshold rather than a criterion, so it is a statement about probability where a weave's is a statement about a graph.

Named by 6 essays across 3 fields — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

The 5-end satin. The 5-end satin on point paper, a filled square meaning the warp is on the face. Its longest float, its interlacing count and the number of separable cloths it describes were all counted from the matrix that drew it.

What the matrix cannot say

A weave is a binary matrix, and the whole of this collection rests on it. So it is worth setting down, in one place and precisely, what that encoding decides exactly, what it decides while appearing to decide something else, and the four quite different reasons a real fabric can fall outside it altogether.

cloth · What cloth is A web at 6 fibre lengths squared per unit area. Straight fibres dropped at random positions and random angles. The largest connected group is drawn solid; everything not joined to it is drawn faintly. Whether that group reaches both edges is what decides whether this is a sheet or a heap.

Nonwovens, and what holds them together instead

A web of fibres laid down at random has no repeat, so the exact test for whether a fabric holds together has nothing to work on. What replaces it is a threshold, and the threshold is sharp.

cloth · Integrity The hole between four threads. Three millimetres of a woven filter cloth in plan, with one clear opening dimensioned and a grain of the soil it must retain drawn at the same scale. Every hole in the repeat is this size — a woven cloth's pore distribution is a single value, which is why it is specified by an opening size while a nonwoven needs a curve.

The hole between four threads

A woven cloth's holes are all the same size. That is not an approximation — it is what a repeat means — and it is the whole reason a woven filter is specified by one number while a nonwoven needs a curve. The number is the spacing less the diameter, which this site has been computing since its first questions about setting.

applied · Cover A filter cloth has two jobs. Opening size against sett for a woven filter cloth, with the two limits that specify one: the soil is retained below the retention line, and the water passes above the open-area floor. They pull opposite ways, so the answer is an interval in the sett — and for a fine enough soil there is no interval at all.

A filter cloth has two jobs

Hold the soil back and pass the water. The first wants a close sett and the second wants an open one, so a filter cloth is not a fabric but an interval — one that is sometimes a single sett wide, and for a fine enough soil is empty. The empty case is the useful one, because it says the answer is not a woven cloth at all.

applied · Openings Milling, on the nonwoven's own scale. Migrated fibre accumulating with agitation, measured against the stick-percolation threshold this site uses for nonwovens. Above the line the fibre network holds on its own, which is why a milled cloth can be cut without fraying — the weave is no longer the only thing keeping it together.

Milling holds the cloth a second time

This site's integrity criterion returns exactly the same answer for a melton as for the loose twill it was woven as, and it is right both times. What has changed is that a second network now holds the fabric together, made of migrated fibre rather than of thread crossings — and it is the one that decides whether a cut edge frays.

finishing · Felting A coating over the hole it has to bridge. Four warp ends of 40 tex seen end-on at 20 per centimetre, with a 120 micrometre PVC film over them. The film is supported everywhere it lies on a thread and unsupported over the 252 micrometre clear span between them, which is the same span at every hole in the repeat. The film's thickness is drawn to scale against that span; the bulge is exaggerated. At 20 MPa the film will hold at most 381 bar, which is a bound and not a prediction.

A coated cloth fails at its holes

Spread a film over a fabric and it is supported everywhere it lies on a thread and unsupported over every hole. A woven cloth's holes are all the same size — exactly, because a repeat is a repeat — so the film has one span to bridge and the fabric has a burst pressure rather than a distribution. A nonwoven gives it a distribution, and a membrane fails at the largest hole it meets.

applied · Coating

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

CoverPercolationSettCloth integrityOpening sizeRepeatRetentionSpecificationThresholdBurst pressureCoatingConnectivity

All concepts