Textile Structure
how cloth is put together
Concept

Weave angle — where it appears

The angle a thread's path makes with the plane of the cloth at a crossing, which Peirce's geometry solves for. It is what decides the contact force, the crimp height and how much the thread can be pulled straight before it jams.

Named by 6 essays across 5 fields — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

The interchange budget against cover, at three yarn counts. The extension a plain cloth can reach with no thread stretching, plotted against its warp cover factor, for 10, 20, 40 tex yarn. The three curves coincide, because every length in Peirce's geometry is a multiple of the yarn diameter and a spacing measured in diameters is a cover factor — so the count divides out exactly and the maximum is at 0.407782 for all of them, at a budget of 7.2857%. That the curve has a maximum at all is the finding: crimp is what a cloth spends, so more of it should be better, and past this cover the weft has nowhere to put what the warp gives up. What the plot cannot show is the balance, which moves the height of the maximum a long way and its position hardly at all.

The most a cloth can give back

The extension a cloth can find without stretching a thread comes from crimp, so setting a cloth closer ought to give it more. It does, up to a point, and then takes it away again — and the point is a cover factor of 0.4078 at a budget of 7.2857 per cent, identical to six figures for every yarn count from five tex to a hundred.

cloth · Memory A crossing before and after it is pressed. One warp end of a sheeting riding over three picks, drawn twice to the same scale. Unpressed, both sections are circles and the cloth is 0.388 mm thick. At 0.40 N per crossing the sections flatten to aspect ratios of 1.75 and 1.84, the cloth thins to 0.263 mm, and the warp runs flat for 0.109 mm over each pick before it begins to curve. What the drawing cannot show is why the cloth does not do this by itself: flattening shrinks the arc radius as well as the crimp height, so it costs bending energy, and a relaxed cloth keeps its threads round.

A flattened thread is a record of a force

A yarn in cloth is not round, and this site has modelled the flattening for as long as this collection has run with the amount of it left as a number somebody chose. Give the section a stiffness and ask what the cloth prefers, and the answer is a circle — at every stiffness, for every balanced cloth in the table. Flattening does not happen by itself; it happens because something pressed.

mechanics · Compression The crimp ratios a dense shirting can have. Poplins in 15 tex warp and 20 tex weft at 22 picks, from 32 ends per centimetre to 52. Each bar is the interval of warp-to-weft crimp ratios the construction admits at all: the warp must supply at least the thickness the weft cannot reach, and at most what it can reach itself. The rule at one is this site's standing default. It sits inside the interval up to 44.18 ends per centimetre and outside it beyond — so for a dense shirting an equal division of the crimp is not merely the wrong assumption but a geometric impossibility. The 44-end poplin this site's own cloth table called impossible for a long time sits a fifth of an end below that limit, which is why the solver failed on it: its feasible interval was real and narrow, and a bisection on the whole range walked away from it.

The cloth that was called impossible

This site's own table of fabrics carries a note saying a real 44-end poplin has no solution in its geometry at all, and that the poplin row was therefore set at 32 ends. The cloth solves. What had no solution was the search — a bisection that treated a state it could not reach as evidence of having gone too far, and walked away from the answer every time.

setting · Crimp What holds a pick in. The holding force on one weft, as a multiple of the tension applied to its free end. For a plain weave it is the capstan on twice the weave angle, which Peirce's geometry gives at each sett and which falls towards nothing as the cloth opens out. For a leno it is the capstan on a half-turn, which the sett does not enter at all.

A leno's hole cannot drift

A filter cloth is rated by its largest hole, and the largest hole grows one micrometre for every micrometre an end moves sideways. What holds an end in place in an ordinary weave is friction at its crossings, and that friction falls smoothly to nothing as a cloth opens — with no threshold to warn anybody. A leno's crossing does not: its ends are wrapped through half a turn by construction, so the grip has no sett in it, and at an open cloth it holds eighteen times what a plain weave manages.

fancy · Leno The surface of a 2/2 twill, in plan. One repeat of a 2/2 twill in sheeting, drawn 2 × 2 times, with every point painted in the colour of whichever thread owns the outside of the cloth there and at an opacity set by how high it is. The range is 221.0 µm from the highest point to the lowest, the root-mean-square roughness is 74.9 µm, and 30% of the plan is hole rather than surface. The bright ribbons are the float plateaux, where a thread lies straight across the threads it passes over and its outside is a horizontal line rather than a point — which is the whole of what follows. The warp crowns at 190.8 µm and the weft at 182.8 µm, a step of 8.0 µm, so the cloth touches the world on its warp alone until anything pressing on it has sunk that far.

A cloth has an outside

Every quantity in this collection is a property of the inside of a fabric — a crimp, a cover, a hole, a fibre count. None of them says where the cloth stops. The outside is a height field the draft computes, its crowns stand at two different levels, and which of the two is higher decides what the cloth touches the world with.

cloth · Surface A round thread reflects a beam into a fan. A round thread seen end-on, with a beam arriving from straight above. Every point across the thread has its own normal, tilted by the angle it sits at, and mirrors the beam through twice that angle — so a single direction in becomes a whole fan out, spread across the thread and not at all along it. Seen from the front that fan is a highlight lying along the thread, exactly as long as the length of thread that is straight, which is the float. Nothing about this depends on the fibre. A cylinder of any material returns a fan, and the only way to narrow it is to stop the section being a cylinder — which is what a calender does.

A float reflects into a line

A cylinder cannot return a beam to a point. Its normals sweep the whole half-turn across it and nothing at all along it, so a straight thread throws light into a fan — seen as a highlight lying along the thread, exactly as long as the length of thread that is straight. The lobe of a satin is twice as narrow along the thread as across it; the lobe of a plain weave is exactly round.

weaves · Shine

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

Cover factorCrimp heightSettCloth thicknessCrimp ratioCrown lineFloat lengthJammingPacking factorPeirce's geometryPlateauSurface height

All concepts