Textile Structure
how cloth is put together
Concept

Stitching plan — where it appears

The set of positions in a double cloth's repeat at which a thread of one layer is carried into the other to join them. It decides how firmly the layers hold together and, by the same token, how much of the pair's drape and warmth the joining costs.

Named by 2 essays across one field — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

Where a stitch can hide on a 5-end satin face. The face weave on point paper, with a mark on every gap between two ends at which a stitch would be covered. 15 of the 25 positions in the repeat pass the cover rule, which is 60 per cent of them, and 5 of those can be used at once without two stitches sharing a pick or a gap.

Where a stitch can hide

One reversed intersection turns two cloths into one, and half the intersections in the repeat would do it. Almost none of them may be used — a plain-faced double cloth has nowhere at all to put a stitch, a five-end satin has fifteen places or none depending on which rule is asked, and two satins of the same order differ by a factor of two.

fancy · Double cloth What stitching takes back from a double muslin. The warmth a two-layer muslin of the same yarn gains beyond its √2 thickness, against the share of a layer's intersections that carry a stitch, with a 5-end satin face. Under the parallel rule the bonus is 18.8 per cent whatever the stitching, because that rule already treats every fibre as running through the cloth. Under Maxwell's rule for fibres lying across the heat's path the bare bonus is 8.4 per cent and each stitch takes some back: one stitch a repeat (4% of intersections) leaves 7.6, one a pick, scattered (20% of intersections) leaves 4.7, every hidden position (60% of intersections) leaves -1.5.

A stitch takes back what the parallel rule cannot see

Dividing a cloth's yarn into two layers makes it warmer than its thickness, and the essay that found it computed the warmth by the one mixing rule that cannot see a stitch — the one that treats every fibre as though it ran straight through the cloth. That rule gives the largest bonus there is. Yarn in a cloth lies in its plane, and by the rule for fibres lying across the heat's path a double muslin's bonus is 8.4 per cent, not 18.8. A stitch is the one fibre that does run through the cloth, and at half the intersections it takes the whole bonus back.

fancy · Double cloth

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

Double clothStitchingBacked clothCloth integrityCloth thicknessConnectivityCovering ruleFloatInsulationMove numberPacking factorPlain weave

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