Textile Structure
how cloth is put together
Concept

Two pore systems — where it appears

The two populations of space a spun-yarn fabric has: the holes between its threads, and the gaps between the fibres inside them. The first is tens to hundreds of micrometres across and the second a few, so which of them decides a property depends on whether the question reads the smallest pore or the largest.

Named by 10 essays across 4 fields — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

How open a batiste is, against where the light is. One minus the cover is a cloth's openness to a light directly behind it, and for this batiste it is 40.1 per cent. Move off the normal and a line of sight has to clear the hole at the top of the cloth and the same hole one thickness below, so what it can use falls as t·tan α is taken off each side — reaching nothing at 39.0° across the ends. Averaged over the whole sky with Lambert's cosine weighting, the cloth is 6.42 per cent open — 6.3 times less than the covering rule says, and the whole of the difference is the thickness. One minus the cover is the openness of a cloth with no thickness, and no cloth has none.

Opacity is not cover

The covering rule counts a thread as a bar that stops everything, and a single fine cotton thread held to a window plainly does not. What a cloth transmits is the open area plus whatever comes through the threads, so the covered fraction is a lever rather than a barrier — and the lever is longest exactly where the rule says the cloth is most closed. Nothing here computes a thread's transmittance, and saying why is the useful half.

pattern · Opacity What a muslin passes, against how closely it is set. A muslin's air permeability at 100 Pa as the sett is closed from 6.9 to 34.2 threads per centimetre, with the two paths separated. The channels between the threads carry 8285 mm/s at the open end and 1330 at the close one, and they go to zero when the cloth jams. The threads themselves carry 1.7 to 6.4 mm/s and never go to zero at all, because a thread is sixty per cent fibre whatever the sett is. Extended to a cloth with no channel left, that path is 8.1 mm/s — a floor set by the yarn rather than by the construction, and a specification asking for less has asked for a fabric that cannot be woven from this yarn at any sett.

A cloth stops having holes before it stops passing air

Close a woven cloth up and the channels between its threads shut. What passes through it does not go to zero, because a thread is sixty per cent fibre and forty per cent air and stays that way whatever is done to the construction. So a fabric's permeability has a floor, the floor belongs to the yarn rather than to the weaver, and no sett on any loom reaches it.

applied · Permeability The coarsest pore and the finest, in one muslin. A muslin's two pore systems asked the same question. Water at a contact angle of 120° is held back by a pore of radius r at a head of 2γ|cos θ|/ρgr, so the hole between four threads — hydraulic radius 134 µm — holds 56 mm of water, and the space between the fibres inside a thread — 2.50 µm — holds 2975 mm. Water takes the cheapest path, so the cloth leaks at the first of them and the second is never asked. Turn the contact angle round to a wetting one and the same two radii give a rise instead, and now it is the finest that decides, because that is the one that lifts highest: 5950 mm. One expression, two ends of a distribution, and the fabric's two properties read opposite ends of it.

The pore that wicks is the pore that leaks

A cloth's water resistance and a cloth's wicking are one expression, read at the two ends of a contact angle. The geometry cannot be chosen to give both, because it is the same geometry; the only thing that decides which a fabric does is a finish. And the two questions do not even read the same pore — a rise is set by the finest and a leak by the coarsest, so the same cloth lifts water three metres and holds it back at fifty-six millimetres.

finishing · Wicking A voile hung at 2.5 times its window, seen in plan. A curtain of voile gathered to 2.5 times the width of its window, drawn in plan with the window above it and a line of sight crossing a flank. A length of cloth spans its own length times the cosine of its flank angle, so a fullness of 2.5 stands every flank at 66.4 degrees and a line of sight normal to the window meets the cloth at that incidence. This cloth's holes close completely at 47.3 degrees, which is a fullness of 1.48, so at 2.5 times every flank passes no line of sight at all and the whole of what comes through arrives at the crests. Flat the cloth is 49.3% open and hung it is 3.0%. What the plan cannot show is the cloth's own drape, which rounds every fold drawn here as a corner.

A curtain is gathered so that it is seen edge-on

A curtain is hung with more cloth than window, and the surplus is not decoration. Laid in folds, a length of cloth spans its own length times the cosine of its flank angle, so the fullness is the secant of that angle exactly — and a line of sight through the window meets the cloth at it. A voile's view halves at a fullness of 1.08, its flanks shut completely at 1.48, and at the two and a half times a curtain is actually hung at, every flank passes nothing and the whole of what comes through is the crests.

pattern · Opacity Where a wet cloth keeps its water. For four cloths of this collection's own table, the share of the water a saturated cloth holds that sits inside the fibre as regain, between the fibres inside the yarn, and between the yarns in the cloth's own holes. muslin at 99 grams a square metre holds 183 per cent of its own weight, 4.6 per cent of it in the fibre; sheeting at 155 grams a square metre holds 113 per cent of its own weight, 7.5 per cent of it in the fibre; poplin at 100 grams a square metre holds 165 per cent of its own weight, 5.2 per cent of it in the fibre; duck at 207 grams a square metre holds 139 per cent of its own weight, 6.1 per cent of it in the fibre. The fibre's own water — the property cotton is sold on — is a twentieth to a thirteenth of the total, and the other nineteen twentieths are geometry. What the bars cannot show is the hair layer, which holds water outside all three of these and which this arithmetic has no place for.

A cotton's own water is a twentieth of what a cloth holds

A wet cloth keeps water in three places and only one of them is the fibre. A sheeting saturated holds 113 per cent of its own dry weight: 7.5 per cent of that inside the cotton as regain, 39 per cent in the channels between the fibres of its yarns, and 54 per cent in the holes four threads bound. The same construction in polyester, whose regain is a fortieth of cotton's, holds 105 per cent — an eight-point difference from a fortyfold one, because absorbency is a geometry with a fibre in it rather than a fibre with a geometry round it.

cloth · Water How high each pore system stands while the cloth is drying. The height at which supply up the cloth balances loss from its faces, for the two pore systems, against the evaporation rate. The coarse system between the yarns barely moves — 137 millimetres at the dry end against 109 at the wet — while the fine system between the fibres falls from its sealed-tube height of 6375 millimetres to 52. The two cross at 1553 grams a square metre an hour.

A drying cloth cannot lift what a sealed tube can

Every rise on this account is an equilibrium in a sealed tube, and a garment is neither sealed nor at equilibrium. Balancing the supply up a strip against the loss from its faces gives a quadratic whose width cancels exactly: in an ordinary room the fine system between the fibres stands at 500 millimetres instead of 6.37 metres, keeping 7.9 per cent of what a tube would give it, while the coarse system loses a third of a per cent. The forty-sixfold advantage becomes 3.7, and in a drying wind it reverses.

applied · Wicking What a spin leaves in a cotton load, against the drum's speed. The water left in a 68 mm load of cotton sheeting in a drum of 250 mm radius, as a share of the load's dry weight, against the spin speed. Read with the fibre holding its swollen water, the spin leaves 51% at 1,000 rpm and 41% at 1,400, and no speed takes it below 30%, the volume the fibre grew by. Read with the fibre holding only its regain, as the earlier account of a wet cloth did, the same spin leaves 16% at 1,400 and the floor is 8.5%. What the chart cannot show is the water a drained channel keeps as a film and as rings at the fibre contacts, which the model takes as nothing and which lifts every point on both curves.

A spin leaves the water a fibre swelled by

A washing machine's spin is a centrifuge, and it drains a cloth in the order its pores give up water: the holes between the yarns at a few g, the channels inside the yarns only far enough from the drum's wall, and the water inside the fibre never. That last reservoir is not the regain. A soaked cotton fibre holds the volume it swelled by — 30 per cent of its dry weight, three and a half times the regain — and it is the floor under every spin speed there is.

cloth · Water How high a strip wicks a finite supply, in four rooms. The steady height of the fine pore system's wicking front against the supply of sweat at the strip's foot, both on logarithmic scales, for a sheeting-weight strip in four rooms. Below each room's capacity the height is the supply over twice the evaporation from each face, a line of slope one that no cloth property moves. It meets the room's drying ceiling at the capacity — 43 g/(m·h) at 20 g/m²·h, ceiling 1064 mm; 100 g/(m·h) at 100 g/m²·h, ceiling 501 mm; 204 g/(m·h) at 400 g/m²·h, ceiling 255 mm; 400 g/(m·h) at 1500 g/m²·h, ceiling 133 mm — and past it the strip takes no more. The marks along the bottom are four sweat rates from rest to hard work, fed from a contact patch 50 mm tall.

A sweating cloth wicks as high as the room can dry it

Every wicking height so far has had its foot in unlimited water. Skin is not a reservoir: it supplies sweat at a rate, and a cloth fed at a rate stands where the supply equals what its faces lose — the supply over twice the evaporation, with no pore, fibre or thickness in it. The cloth decides only when it has had enough, and it says so all at once: the holes between its yarns stay empty until the fine pores are carrying ninety-nine per cent of what they can.

applied · Wicking What every 150 g/m² cotton cloth carries into the drying, against its count. The water a plain cotton cloth of 150 grams a square metre holds when it starts to dry, as a share of its dry weight, for every count that can make that weight as one cloth, from 20 to 200 tex — cloths whose thickness runs from 0.33 to 1.06 mm. Laid flat without a spin, every pore is full and the share climbs with the count from 128% to 591%, because a coarser cloth of one weight has larger, deeper holes. Hung on a line for a metre, the holes drain above their own head and every count keeps 101% to 104%. Spun at 1,400 rpm in a full load, every count keeps 40.9%, the finest and the coarsest within 0.1 of a point of each other. What the chart cannot show is the water a drained channel keeps as films, which lifts the two lower lines alike.

A spun cloth dries by its weight

Every plain cotton of 150 grams a square metre contains the same fibre, and the count only arranges it: the coarsest is three times as thick as the finest. Laid out wet without a spin, the thick one holds four and a half times as much water, all of it in its holes. Spun, every one of them keeps 40.9 per cent of its weight and dries in the same time — because a spin empties the holes, and what it leaves in the yarns is not their volume but the fibres' surface, which the weight has already fixed.

cloth · Water How tall a skin contact can be before its cloth floods. The tallest patch of skin contact whose cloth keeps the holes between its yarns empty, against the sweat rate, on logarithmic axes, for a sheeting-weight cloth in rooms evaporating 20, 100, 400, 1500 g/m²·h from each face. The patch evaporates from its outer face only and hands its surplus to the free cloth above, which spreads it until the fine system's capacity; so a contact floods when it is taller than 98.9% of that capacity over the surplus. Below the room's own evaporation rate no contact of any size floods. In an ordinary room a run floods any contact taller than 247 mm and hard work any taller than 90 mm.

Wicking borrows drying area from the cloth that is not touching

A shirt is fed with sweat across the whole of the skin it touches, not at the foot of a strip. Through its own thickness the cloth could pass sweat a hundred thousand times faster than a body makes it, so a patch pressed flat never lacks capacity; what it lacks is drying area, because it can give water to the room only from its outer face. Pressed flat everywhere, it floods as soon as the sweat exceeds the room's evaporation — light work, in an ordinary room. With free cloth above the contact, wicking carries the surplus to faces that are not touching, and the sweat decides how much area it needs: three times the contact's at a run, whatever the contact's size.

applied · Wicking

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

Packing factorMoistureOpen areaWickingPermeabilityWaterClear openingCover factorHydraulic radiusInter fibre poreJurin's lawOpacity

All concepts