Textile Structure
how cloth is put together
Concept

Inter fibre pore — where it appears

The space between the fibres inside a yarn, a few micrometres across, set by the fibre diameter and the packing factor alone. It is far smaller than the pore between yarns, so it pulls harder and fills more slowly, and a cloth wicks by both at once.

Named by 3 essays across 2 fields — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

Also named here as pore radius — the same set of essays touches all of them, so they are one junction rather than several.

The sett moves the flux and not the height. A 20 tex cotton yarn woven at every sett from 8 to 34 threads per centimetre. Above: the hole between the threads lifts from 27 to 234 mm as the cloth closes, while the space between the fibres lifts 6.37 m at every one of them — so the cloth's maximum is the flat line, and the sett does not touch it. Below: the permeability of those holes falls by a factor of 292 over the same range. Both curves are monotone, so there is no optimum — only an interval, ending at the jam at 34.6 threads per centimetre.

The sett decides how much, not how high

Every rung of this ladder so far has found the sett deciding something. This one finds it deciding nothing at all: a cloth's maximum rise is 6.37 m at eight threads per centimetre and 6.37 m at thirty-four, because the sett cannot reach inside a yarn.

setting · Sett Two pore systems in one cloth — 24 threads per centimetre. A plain weave of 20 tex cotton in section, at 24 threads per centimetre, so the yarn is 167 µm across and the clear hole between two picks is 250 µm. That hole's hydraulic radius is 124.8 µm. Inside the yarn, fibres 14 µm across packed at 0.6 leave spaces of hydraulic radius 2.33 µm — 53 times finer, and by Jurin's law 53 times higher: 6.37 m against 119 mm. The yarn's interior is magnified 6 times and the two discs at the foot are the only part drawn at one scale.

How high a cloth wicks

A woven cloth has two capillary systems and they are a factor of twenty to a hundred apart. The one every diagram draws — the hole between four threads — lifts 119 mm. The one nobody draws, inside the yarn, lifts 6.37 m.

applied · Wicking A front on a thread with 8 per cent crimp. Three rows at one scale. The top row is the warp end laid out straight, with the wetted front marked at four equal quarters of its own length — which is where Washburn's law puts it at four times whose square roots are evenly spaced. The middle row is the same thread crimped at 8 per cent, so it covers 92.6 per cent of the paper the straight one did. The bottom row is the cloth, and the four fronts on it are the four above pulled back by 1.08. A coefficient is a length squared over a time, so it comes down by 1.1664 — exactly (1 + c)², with no property of the liquid or the fibre in it. The thread's thickness is not drawn and neither is the liquid: a meniscus in a 2.33 µm pore is finer than any line on this canvas.

Wicking is slower along a crimped thread

A front travelling up a warp end travels the thread's path, which is longer than the cloth by exactly the crimp. So the wicking coefficient measured on the fabric is the yarn's own divided by (1 + c)² — 14.3 per cent lost at eight per cent crimp, whatever the liquid.

applied · Wicking

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

Pore radiusWickingContact angleHydraulic radiusJurin's lawPoiseuille's lawSettWashburn's lawAnisotropyCoverCrimpCrimp interchange

All concepts