Concept

Peirce — where it appears

The 1937 treatment in which a thread runs straight between crossings and turns through a circular arc around its partner. It is the model behind nearly every dimension this collection computes, and it is one equation short of a solution.

Named by 2 essays across one field — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

Pull it lengthways and it narrows. The same cloth before and after a small extension along the warp. No thread has stretched: the extension came out of the warp crimp, that crimp went into the weft, and the fabric is narrower for it.

Crimp, and why cloth narrows when it is pulled

A thread in cloth is longer than the cloth it crosses. Pull the fabric one way and that extra length is taken out of one direction and put into the other, so the cloth gets narrower without a single fibre stretching.

setting · Crimp

What an interlacing costs. Each weave's interlacing count beside the closest it can be set in the same yarn. The two run opposite ways, because a thread that changes face often has to bend often and a bend takes room.

How close can threads be set

There is a maximum. Push more threads into a cloth than the geometry allows and they simply will not go, and the limit depends on the weave as much as on the yarn.

setting · Sett

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

Ashenhurst's rule Conservation Cover Crimp Crimp interchange Extension Jamming Sett

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