Concept

Draft — where it appears

A weave written on point paper, one square to each intersection, filled where the warp is on the face. It records the interlacement exactly and nothing else, so thickness, thread and the relative origin of two weaves are all outside it.

Named by 5 essays across 3 fields — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

The 2/2 twill. The 2/2 twill on point paper, a filled square meaning the warp is on the face. Its longest float, its interlacing count and the number of separable cloths it describes were all counted from the matrix that drew it.

The draft is a matrix

Point paper is not a diagram of cloth. It is a grid of yes-or-no decisions about which threads to lift, which makes a weave a binary matrix and almost every question about it arithmetic.

cloth · What cloth is
A stripe of a satin stripe on a plain ground. a satin stripe on a plain ground, written as one draft of 8 picks and 20 ends. Each band is generated from its own rule and the whole matrix is measured as one: 10 shafts, which is the number of distinct columns in the union of the two bands, against 8 if every column were shared and 10 if none were. The bands have 0 columns in common.

A stripe is a partition of the warp

A striped cloth is not a weave with decoration on it — it is one matrix in which different bands of ends obey different rules. The shaft count is a set union rather than a sum, and of forty-five pairs of standard weaves only three share a single column.

pattern · Stripe
Which lifting plan exposes a threading error another plan hides. For every four-shaft threading of eight ends and every double threading error silent under the row's lifting plan, the share that the column's plan exposes — weaving a cloth that is caught or visibly different — when the same threading is re-pegged. Silent under the 2/2 twill (99,872 pairs): 2/2 other way 0%, 1/3 twill 44%, 3/1 twill 44%, broken 70%, point 34%, plain 0%, hopsack 34%, unrelated 99%. Silent under the 1/3 twill (56,352 pairs): 2/2 twill 0%, 2/2 other way 0%, 3/1 twill 0%, broken 76%, point 50%, plain 0%, hopsack 47%, unrelated 98%. Silent under the broken twill (29,888 pairs): 2/2 twill 0%, 2/2 other way 0%, 1/3 twill 55%, 3/1 twill 55%, point 0%, plain 0%, hopsack 53%, unrelated 97%. Silent under the point twill (66,208 pairs): 2/2 twill 0%, 2/2 other way 0%, 1/3 twill 57%, 3/1 twill 57%, broken 55%, plain 0%, hopsack 47%, unrelated 99%. A zero means the column's plan hides every error the row's does; the plan of unrelated rows exposes all but the 864 pairs that are the threading itself started elsewhere. What the table cannot show is which plans a given mill pegs one warp with.

A proof plan has no slide in it

A threading error that a 2/2 twill hides is invisible in the cloth and still wrong on the loom, and it shows only when the loom is re-pegged. Re-weaving every silent error under eight other plans says which do the showing. The twill run the other way and plain weave never expose one. A 1/3 twill exposes 44 per cent, a broken twill 70, and a plan of eight unrelated rows all but 864 — and those 864 are not errors at all, because each is the right threading started at another end. So the plans nest: whatever a broken or a point twill hides, the 2/2 hides too, and a threading proved under a 2/2 twill has passed the weakest test there is.

cloth · Notation
The advantage of spreading a blind set, against the repeat. The number of distinct surfaces a blind set keeps when its cells are spread one to a thread, over the number it keeps when they are gathered into a block, against the size of the repeat: 4 blind, 1.512 at 4, 1.254 at 5, 1.129 at 6, 1.064 at 7, 1.032 at 8, 1.008 at 10, 1.002 at 12; 8 blind, 1.080 at 8, 1.020 at 10, 1.005 at 12. Sampled from forty thousand surfaces at each point. The dashed curves are the closed form — each thread the set misses must interlace on its own, which fails once in 2^(n−1) — and the sampled points sit on them from six threads up; at four and five the form overstates, because a thread the set does touch can still fail there. At four by four spreading keeps half as much again; at eight, a few per cent; at twelve, nothing to speak of. What the chart cannot show is whether an eye can tell the surfaces apart.

A blind cell costs half the cloths at any real repeat

At four by four, spreading a blind set over more threads kept half as many cloths apart again as gathering it. At eight by eight the same rule holds, and it is almost nothing: three per cent for four blind cells, eight for eight. The reason is one factor. A blind set's surfaces are the count's bound, 2^(n² − b), times the chance that every thread it misses interlaces on its own, and at eight threads a thread lies all on one face once in 128 tries. So shapes that touch the same number of threads tie exactly, whatever their rectangles; every blind cell costs very nearly half the catalogue; and by twelve threads the arrangement is free.

pattern · Pattern
Which window sizes name every derivation orbit, on every repeat small enough to walk. Every draft of eleven repeat shapes from three picks by three ends to five by five, every thread interlacing, cut into the orbits the derivations that keep a shape can reach — slides, reversals, the counterchange and, on a square repeat, the quarter turn — and tested with censuses of two-, three- and four-thread-square windows. 3 × 3: 3 orbits; window 2 names all, window 3 names all. 3 × 4: 19 orbits; window 2 confuses 2, window 3 names all. 3 × 5: 66 orbits; window 2 confuses 43, window 3 names all. 3 × 6: 365 orbits; window 2 confuses 328, window 3 confuses 12. 3 × 7: 1,680 orbits; window 2 confuses 1,649, window 3 confuses 211. 3 × 8: 8,988 orbits; window 2 confuses 8,949, window 3 confuses 2,324. 4 × 4: 157 orbits; window 2 confuses 49, window 3 names all, window 4 names all. 4 × 5: 2,875 orbits; window 2 confuses 2,153, window 3 names all, window 4 names all. 4 × 6: 36,380 orbits; window 2 confuses 34,439, window 3 confuses 204, window 4 names all. 4 × 7: 447,756 orbits; window 2 confuses 444,174, window 3 confuses 6,503, window 4 confuses 2. 5 × 5: 45,077 orbits; window 2 confuses 42,480, window 3 names all, window 4 names all. On every shape a window no wider than half the ends confuses some orbits, and a window wider than half names all of them but for one pair at four picks by seven ends. What the grid cannot show is a shape too large to walk, six by six among them.

The window that names a cloth is half its repeat

At four by four a census of three-by-three windows tells every derivation family from every other, and the question it left was whether three stays enough as the repeat grows. Walked whole over eleven repeat shapes, three is still enough at five ends — all 45,077 families of the five-by-five cloths apart — and fails as soon as the repeat reaches six. On every shape a window no wider than half the repeat confuses some cloths, and a window wider than half names them all, but for one pair of seven-end cloths that differ in a single end.

weaves · Derivation

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

CensusInterlacingPoint paperRepeatSymmetryThreadingBlind intersectionCloth integrityColour-and-weaveColour orderColumn setDerivation

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