Textile Structure
how cloth is put together
Concept

Moire — where it appears

A beat between two overlaid grids, whose pitch is set by the difference of their wavevectors and grows without bound as they approach each other. It is the mechanism behind watered silk and behind the mark a reed leaves, and in both cases the visible pitch is far coarser than anything in the cloth.

Named by 8 essays across one field — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

A beat at 19.1 mm from grids at 0.5 mm. Two grids at 0.5 and 0.5 mm pitch, the second turned by 1.5°, over a 30 mm window. The dashed rules are one predicted beat period apart. The pattern between them is 38 times the pitch of either grid and neither grid has anything at that scale.

Watered silk is a beat

Fold a ribbed cloth on itself and press it, and a figure appears at a scale neither ply has — fifty times the rib pitch, wandering across the piece. It is the difference of two wavevectors, it is enormous because the angle is tiny, and no two pieces match because no two are folded at the same angle.

pattern · Moire Which dentings leave a mark. Every combination of ends per dent and weave repeat, with how many ends the grouping takes to come back into step. A small number means the reed treats every repeat the same way and the grouping shows as a stripe at the dent pitch; a large one means the grouping walks across the weave and there is nothing periodic for the eye to find. The rule is one word: dent so the two share no factor.

The reed leaves its own mark

A reed does not space a warp evenly. It groups it, several ends to a dent, and the grouping beats against the weave repeat — so a denting that shares a factor with the repeat treats every repeat identically and shows as a stripe, and one that does not is invisible.

pattern · Moire Two layers of one cloth, against how they happen to lie. Two identical muslins laid over one another and slid across each other by one thread spacing. In register the pair passes 37.9 per cent — as much as one cloth, because every hole is over a hole — and it falls linearly to 12.5 per cent before rising again at the next thread. The rule everybody uses is that two layers pass the product of their open areas, which is 14.3 per cent. That number is the average of this curve over all offsets, exactly — an identity, not a fit — and it is the answer at two points on it and nowhere else. Nothing about a real pair of layers is at its average, and the openness varying from place to place across a folded cloth is what a moiré is.

Two layers are the product on average and nowhere

Everybody knows what two layers of a cloth pass: the product of their open areas. That figure is exactly right — it is the mean of the true answer over every way the two layers can lie — and it is the answer at two registrations out of a continuum. In register a doubled cloth is as open as a single one; half a thread out it can be shut completely. The variation across a folded curtain is what a moiré is.

pattern · Opacity One weft fault at three periods, a fraction of a millimetre apart. A 260 mm slice of a 1500 mm cloth at 22 picks per centimetre, 220 picks deep, with a thick place recurring along the weft. Each pick takes a whole width of yarn, so the marks land 35 to a pick across the full width and step sideways by the remainder of the width divided by the fault's period. On the left that remainder is zero and every thick place in the piece falls in the same columns — a warp-way stripe made entirely by a weft fault. In the middle the period is five hundredths of a millimetre longer and the same fault draws steep diagonals. On the right it is a third of a millimetre longer again, the marks land nowhere near each other, and the fault reads as texture. Nothing about the yarn distinguishes the three; the cloth's width does. The slice is drawn rather than the whole width because thirty-five marks a pick fill a panel solid at any step but zero, which is a true picture of a dense pattern and a useless one of its structure.

A slub finds the width of the cloth

A thick place recurring along a weft yarn does not make a bar. It makes diagonals — and when the cloth's width happens to be a whole number of fault periods, it makes stripes down the piece instead, from a fault that is entirely in the weft.

pattern · Moire The magnification a cloth will carry. The largest magnification a moiré can be read at, against the irregularity of the cloth making it. The points are measured: a grating whose spacings are drawn from a seeded lognormal is laid against a perfect one, the fringes are found from the phase difference, and the gain is recorded at which their count first departs from what the ideal beat predicts. The product of the irregularity and that gain comes out at 0.82 to 0.84 across every irregularity tried, so the ceiling is 0.84 divided by the coefficient of variation — the solid curve. The dashed curve is the accumulated-wander model, in which position errors random-walk and the ceiling goes as the inverse square; it is wrong by a factor of 42 at a two per cent irregularity. What the plot cannot show is what a cloth's spacing irregularity actually is: it has not been measured, and the curve is therefore a prediction with an unmeasured input.

A moiré is a vernier, and it magnifies the error too

Two gratings a per cent apart in pitch beat at a hundred pitches, so a moiré reads a pitch difference at a hundred times — which is what a vernier is. The magnification is free and its ceiling is not: the fringes split when one thread's own spacing error reaches 0.84 of the pitch difference the beat is built on, so the usable gain is 0.84 divided by the cloth's coefficient of variation, inversely and not inverse-squarely. At an ordinary yarn's spacing irregularity, a moiré carries a magnification of five.

pattern · Moire Two layers in depth, and the beat perspective makes. An eye, a near grid and a far grid of the same pitch, with a ray from the eye to every bar of the far grid and a dot where each ray crosses the near one. The far bars land on the near layer at 8 to every 9, so the two grids drift out of register and back into it every 8 bars: in register the gaps line up and light comes through, half-way between them the far bars sit in the near gaps and block it. That spacing is the distance divided by the gap, times the pitch, and nothing about the threads or the angle between the layers enters it. The gap here is drawn at one eighth of the distance so the bars can be counted; two sheers 50 mm apart seen from 3 m are at a gain of 60. What the drawing cannot show is a real layer's thickness and its own irregular spacing, both of which the arithmetic treats as absent.

Two sheers make a moiré that walks with the viewer

Hang two identical sheer curtains a few centimetres apart and a moiré appears with no angle between them and no difference in their threads. Perspective alone makes the far one look finer. The fringes are p·V/D apart, which means they cover the same angle from every distance; they move one for one with a person walking past, which is the parallax of the horizon; and a far layer stretched by one per cent makes them vanish at exactly one distance, which says which layer is coarser and by how much.

pattern · Moire A 1.55 mm net 50 mm behind a 0.3 mm voile, from 0.6 m, 1.5 m, 4 m. A 1.55 mm net 50 mm behind a 0.3 mm voile, drawn across 40 mm of the near layer at true pitch as seen from 0.6 m, 1.5 m, 4 m. Two grids this different beat through a harmonic: the net's k-th against the voile's first, for the k nearest the ratio of their pitches as the eye sees them. From 0.6 m that is the fifth, in register every 6.2 mm; From 1.5 m that is the fifth, exactly in register, with no fringe; From 4 m that is the fifth, in register every 14.9 mm. What the strips cannot show is how strong each family is, which falls with the harmonic, nor the net's second family of threads at right angles.

A net over a voile beats through a harmonic

Two identical sheers hung apart make a moiré by perspective alone. A net in front of a voile is not two identical sheers — its mesh is five times the voile's pitch — and it beats anyway, through the net's fifth harmonic, which is a grid 3.3 per cent coarser than the voile. With the net behind, that is a pair of sheers with its coarser layer at the back, and the fringes vanish at exactly 1.5 metres. Closer in, the harmonic changes, the fringes dissolve into a texture twice the net's pitch and re-form, and they vanish again at 17 centimetres.

pattern · Moire A three-direction net over a square voile, averaged each way. The light passing through a 1.55 mm net of three thread directions in front of a 0.3 mm voile of two, 50 mm apart and seen from 3.0 m, sampled on a fine grid over 160 mm, averaged along one direction and smoothed over two net pitches. Down the voile the profile rises and falls with the 6.1 mm family one net set makes; across it, with the 27.4 mm family two sets together make; the vertical rules are the predicted spacings. Each panel is scaled to its own range, and the second family is roughly a tenth the strength of the first. What the profiles cannot show is the fringes' look in two dimensions, where both families cross.

A net of three directions beats a voile one way at a time

A tulle's threads run three ways at sixty degrees and a voile's run two ways at ninety, so a net hung over a voile could show one family of fringes, three, or a lattice of them. It shows two, at right angles, and they are nothing alike. Along the voile threads that lie parallel to one of the net's, the net beats exactly as a one-directional net does: six-millimetre fringes from three metres. Across them no set of the net lies anywhere near, and the only slow beat comes from a line of points two sets make together at √3 over the net's pitch — fringes four times wider and a fifteenth as strong, with a null at 8.8 metres where the strong family has none.

pattern · Moire

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

BeatMagnificationPeriodRegistrationHarmonicMeasurementCoefficient of variationPick densityPopulationSettSurface patternAppearance

All concepts