A round thread reflects a beam into a fan
A round thread seen end-on, with a beam arriving from straight above. Every point across the thread has its own normal, tilted by the angle it sits at, and mirrors the beam through twice that angle — so a single direction in becomes a whole fan out, spread across the thread and not at all along it. Seen from the front that fan is a highlight lying *along* the thread, exactly as long as the length of thread that is straight, which is the float. Nothing about this depends on the fibre. A cylinder of any material returns a fan, and the only way to narrow it is to stop the section being a cylinder — which is what a calender does.
2 essays call
shine-lobe. The drawing above is what it returns with no arguments at all; every
call below passes it something, because a placement that passes nothing draws whichever
member of the family the generator happens to default to rather than the weave its essay
argues about.
Where it is called
Changing this generator changes every one of these figures.
A float reflects into a line
A cylinder cannot return a beam to a point. Its normals sweep the whole half-turn across it and nothing at all along it, so a straight thread throws light into a fan — seen as a highlight lying along the thread, exactly as long as the length of thread that is straight. The lobe of a satin is twice as narrow along the thread as across it; the lobe of a plain weave is exactly round.
Turn the cloth and the shine changes hands
A warp crown's normals all lie in the plane across the warp and have no component along it, so a warp float can only mirror light that arrives from across the warp. Turn the cloth a quarter turn and the weft takes over. That is the whole of shot silk — a geometric effect with no dye that changes and no interference in it.